Hidden Treasures
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY KARYN FANOUS
Standing beside a mountain at Jenolan Caves, our tour guide, Scott, directs us into a long dark tunnel, taking us on a journey back in time and deep into the heart of the mountain. Eventually we come to a cavern.
“This is the Persian Chamber of the Orient Cave,” announces Scott as he turns on extra lighting. We are awestruck by the spectacular array of limestone formations surrounding us.
Jenolan Caves is only a 30 minute drive from Oberon, a pretty town tucked away behind the Blue Mountains on the western fall of the Great Dividing Range in NSW. Up on the Oberon Plateau, at over 1100m above sea level, the town experiences ‘mountain climate’ with four distinct seasons and several snowfalls each winter. The locals recommend that you come prepared for any season at any time of the year.
HISTORICAL HAPPENINGS
The early pioneers knew Oberon as Bullock Flat. The lush countryside attracted settlers and grants of land began to be taken up in the 1820s. In 1837 Sergeant Charles Whalan took up land on the Fish River and established the first post office, the first church and a mill for crushing grain. In 1863 the name was changed to Oberon and it was declared a village.
Amongst Oberon’s notable buildings are St Barnabas Anglican Church built in 1869, the National Australia Bank built around 1882, a two-storey Victorian private residence named Ramsgate built in 1906, and the Art Deco Malachi Gilmore Hall that was finished in 1937.
The Oberon to Tarana Heritage Railway Line opened in 1923 and served the community until 1979, transporting produce such as peas, beans, potatoes, livestock and timber. It is being painstakingly restored with plans to offer heritage train rides. Currently, there is a 31km self-guided driving tour available with an emphasis on the railway history.
Surrounded by rolling green hills and national parks, Oberon is a great base from which to explore a surprising and huge range of attractions. Apart from the heritage buildings, railway and museums, in the great outdoors there’s trout fishing, fossicking, mushrooming, truffle hunting, caving, mountain bike riding, bushwalking, 4WD tours, horse riding, open gardens, and a vineyard. The list goes on and on!
WONDERFUL WATERWAYS
Lake Oberon, the gorgeous town dam, is regularly stocked with rainbow and brown trout, and is a great spot for fishing. The local streams are famous for their trout. A freshwater fishing license is required for stream fishing, which runs from the October long weekend until the June long weekend. The lake is also a lovely spot for boating. As the lake is the town’s water supply, only canoeing, kayaking and electric powered craft are permitted, and life vests must be worn.
TREASURE HUNTING
Fossicking for sapphires and zircons is one of the highlights of the area, with the fabulous ‘Beginners’ Luck Noodling Patch’ right next to the Information Centre! For a minimal fee, the staff will show you how to find the hidden gemstones. We had a great time discovering our hidden treasures, with zircon, sapphires and rose quartz among them. You can obtain a fossicking licence and hire kits from the Information Centre to take out to the designated public fossicking areas where you may be lucky enough to find gold, sapphires, zircons, smoky quartz, and occasionally diamonds.
MUSHROOMING
Between late February and late April, Saffron Milk Caps and Slippery Jack exotic wood mushrooms can be collected from the nearby pine forests. The forests are a cool retreat and an experience in themselves! The mushroom spores originally came from Europe with the pine tree seedlings. We thoroughly enjoyed our mushroom search, and found plenty of the Saffron Milk Caps which we enjoyed with our barbeque back at the Jenolan Caravan Park.
Visit the Oberon Information Centre to seek advice on mushrooming. The friendly and knowledgeable staff will explain where to search and provide information on which mushrooms to pick. Be sure to collect an information sheet and view the photographs at the centre so that you are sure which mushrooms are safe, as there are some toxic varieties.
Be safety conscious: you’re in a forest where logging may be taking place, so keep your eyes peeled for warning signs. Timber trucks share the roads, so make sure your vehicle is right off the road. Also – as some unfortunate day trekkers have found – it’s easy to get lost in the forests, so let someone know where you are picking mushrooms and take care not to lose your bearings. Mobile phone reception is limited outside the Oberon township.
When mushrooming, you’ll need to take a knife for harvesting the mushrooms and a large container to place them in stem-side down to minimise bruising. You’ll find some mushrooms hiding under little mounds of pine needles, so look carefully! Follow the information sheet descriptions closely: these recommend that novices seek out an experienced mushroomer and obtain in-the-field guidance. Correct identification of edible mushrooms is the responsibility of gatherers themselves. A wise warning: “If in doubt, go without”.
Locals advise that the best time to collect mushrooms from the pine forests is in autumn after rain.
SUBTERRANEAN SPECTACLE
The nearby award-winning Jenolan Caves are the most spectacular and best-known limestone caves in Australia, and are amongst the finest and oldest in the world. Located in the Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage Area, they have been open to the public for more than 150 years. There are approximately 40km of caves at Jenolan, but only around 3km are open to the general public.
More than 340 million years ago, the Jenolan region lay beneath a shallow, warm sea with an abundance of coral, seashells and marine creatures. Over time, the remnants of these have been compressed to form a 9km long limestone belt. Streams flowing underground dissolved its calcium carbonate, creating caves and amazing formations. Surprisingly, bones of Tasmanian Tigers still lie deep within the caves.
The word ’Jenolan’ means ‘high mountain’, although most know it as a subterranean wonderland. For many thousands of years, Jenolan has played a significant part in the culture of the local Gundungurra people whose name for this spectacular place is Binoomea, meaning ‘the dark place’.
The first recorded Europeans to discover the caves were settlers James and Charles Whalan in 1838. However, there’s another story associated with the caves. An ex-convict named James McKeown, regarded by some to be an outlaw, was believed to have been using the caves as a hideout prior to Whalan’s discovery. Interestingly, the Chifley Cave was the world’s first cave to be lit with electric light in 1880.
There is so much to see and do at Jenolan: eleven spectacular show caves, a self-guided tour, children’s tours, night and ghost tours, adventure caving, bushwalks, and underground musical performances – because of course, the acoustics are fantastic!
The show caves feature astonishing limestone formations, beautiful crystals and massive chambers. The Orient Cave is described as one of the world’s most beautiful caves and Jenolan’s most dazzling cave, but you’ll also be awed when you enter the Temple of Baal Cave to view the nine-metre-tall ‘Angel’s Wing’, one of the biggest cave shawls in the world.
The Imperial Cave follows a millenniums-old river passage that forged its way through limestone. You’ll see marine fossils in the walls and the Jenolan Underground River can be accessed from this cave via a spiral staircase.
Apart from the cave tours, there are other adventurous options such as night tours and ‘Off the Track Tours’ using pathways that are no longer on the regular tours. And then there’s the challenge of the award-winning Adventure Caving. Overalls, helmet and headlamp are supplied for you to explore caverns and small passageways with experienced guides. What an amazing experience it is to wander around inside a mountain!
A striking feature of the precinct is the Heritage-listed Caves House, built in 1896 as a wilderness retreat for the wealthy. This grand Victorian-era hotel now provides accommodation, the elegant award-winning Chisholm’s restaurant, and a bar and bistro for visitors to the caves.
BACK IN OBERON
Jenolan Caravan Park is a delightful spot to set up camp, with spacious, shady and grassy campsites. The amenities are modern and clean, there’s a well-equipped camp kitchen, and the communal campfire makes a great place to meet fellow travellers. It’s just a short walk to town, and right next door is the town’s indoor tennis centre, outdoor swimming pool, and a park. Owners Sally and Bob are very keen to ensure that all their guests have an enjoyable stay.
While there, we met Gordon and Kerry from Camden, NSW. They have caravanned extensively around NSW in recent years, usually in pursuit of Veterans’ golf tournaments! Gordon and Kerry enjoy visiting the pretty and tidy town of Oberon with its friendly locals. They love driving through the pine forests, collecting exotic mushrooms, bush walking at nearby Kanangra National Park, and playing golf.
During their stay, Gordon competed in the NSW Veterans’ Golf Tournament at the Oberon Golf Course, which he describes as his favourite in NSW. Located on the hilly foreshores of Lake Oberon, the course has 18 holes, with scenic views from many of them. We were told that the local golfers have a tendency to have one leg shorter that the other due to the sloping course!
A visit to Oberon takes you on a journey of discovery. You’ll need more than a couple of days to indulge in all the pleasures that Oberon and its picturesque surrounds have to offer. You’re sure to find some hidden treasures!
CHEAP TREATS
Try your luck fossicking next to the Information Centre
Enjoy a game of golf
Stroll around Falkirk Daffodil Garden
Step back in time at the Oberon Museums
Visit Oberon RSL Club for lawn bowls, squash courts, entertainment, restaurant and bar facilities
FREEBIES
Mushrooming
Fishing on Lake Oberon
Wine tasting at Casey’s Vineyard
Tablelands Way Farmers’ Markets: first Saturday of each month in St Barnabas Park, Oberon Street, 8am – 1pm.
Enjoy a picnic on The Common, a lovely park complete with barbeques, pond, playground and bike track.
PLACES TO STAY
JENOLAN CARAVAN PARK
7 Cunynghame Street, Oberon
T: (02) 6336 0344
E: jenolancaravanpark@bigpond.com
W: www.jenolancaravanpark.com.au
FLAT ROCK CAMPGROUND
Mutton Falls Road, O’Connell.
30km north of Oberon.
Free camping next to the Fish River with swimming holes, basic toilets, wood fired barbecues and a sealed access road.
CHIFLEY DAM CAMPGROUND
Chifley Dam Road, The Lagoon. 43km north-west of Oberon via O’Connell Rd and Lagoon Rd. Four free camp sites on the shores of Chifley Dam with drinking water, flushing toilets, picnic shelters, barbecues and a playground available. Maximum stay is 3 days, no bookings taken. The dam gates are closed at night (6pm winter and 9pm summer) and reopen again at 7:30am. The last 2km of the access road is unsealed.
Contact the Bathurst Visitor Information Centre on (02) 6332 1444 for enquiries.
ATTRACTIONS
OBERON TARANA HERITAGE RAILWAY
Detailed notes for the scenic drive are available from the website.
W: www.othr.com.au
OBERON AND DISTRICT MUSEUM
Once the railway station, the museum houses a collection of items of local historical interest
10.30 – 5pm Saturdays; other days by appointment
62 Scotia Avenue, Oberon
Ph: (02) 6336 1016
OBERON MILITARY MUSEUM
Houses an array of weapons from the Boer War until the present.
Corner of Oberon and Dudley Streets, Oberon
12:30pm – 4pm Wednesday and Friday;
10am – 4pm Saturdays and Public Holidays
Ph: 0438 615 653
LOWES MOUNT TRUFFIERE
Fresh truffles and truffle hunts available from June-August and hazelnuts from March-April.
927 Lowes Mount Road, Oberon
Ph: (02) 6336 3148
W: lowesmounttruffles.com.au
OPEN GARDENS
MAYFIELD GARDEN
One of the largest cool climate gardens in the Southern Hemisphere. It’s open for three weekends in autumn and spring.
530 Mayfield Rd, Oberon
T: (02) 6336 3131
W: www.mayfieldgarden.com.au
FALKIRK DAFFODIL GARDEN
This large garden and daffodil nursery is open to the public in late September and early October.
2070 Edith Road, Oberon
T: (02) 6336 1757
W: daffodils.com.au
CASEY’S VINEYARD
‘Wine with Altitude’ – chardonnay, pinot noir and shiraz are available for tasting.
Open weekends from 11am – 4pm
960 Hazelgrove Road, Hazelgrove
T: (02) 6336 1744
W: caseysvineyard.com.au