Hunter Coast’s Hidden Gems
WORDS BY FRED WRIGHT,
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN HABERFIELD
Often it’s the places and people right under our very noses that unexpectedly bring delightful surprises and life-long memories. And so it was to be as we set up our Crusader van in Newcastle and began a quest to uncover the gems of the beautiful Hunter Valley Region in NSW.
We had heard on the grapevine that the CMCA Hunter Coastal Wanderers were to stop at a camp behind the Tomago Bowling Club not far away, so we set off to say hello. We soon discovered a happy group of RVers who readily agreed to help us with shooting the opening image for this article, plus the Happy Hour on this issue’s DVD.
Their motorhomes were arranged in an orderly fashion and as we arrived we spotted a group enjoying the camaraderie close to their RVs, while a hotly contested game of disc bowls was well underway. As with many RV clubs they were also raising money for a worthwhile cause. More and more, I see that this attitude of giving back to the community and donating to charities is a significant part of what RVers do. Perhaps this is not generally known by the public and an aspect of our lifestyle we need to publicise more.
After handshakes and a fond farewell to all the friendly Hunter Wanderers, we headed back to base camp, having planned to enjoy a trip to Fighter World at Williamtown the following day.
We were knocked off our feet when we arrived at Williamtown, awestruck by the sight of two hangars filled with historical aircraft. I was pleased to meet Richard Coleman, who had been a fighter pilot flying Mirage jets and is a now a commercial pilot on large jets. In fact all the volunteers who work here are only too pleased to explain any details of the planes stored here and their history and significance.
This attraction comprises, large, undercover two hangars full of planes in a hands-on exhibition with an open air museum between and a café that serves great tea/coffee and snacks. Don’t forget to view modern jets from the observation deck, watching their engines scream into life on take-off from the adjacent RAAF base at Williamtown. To see these jets is one thing but to hear them as they take off under full threat is something else again.
Sitting in the cockpit of an F-111C fighter bomber with its swept wings was a real experience and I could only wonder at how our Aussies pilots can master their controls so well. They are still an awesome flying machine and you’ll enjoy being able to explore and examine them all up close, an important aspect of experiencing Fighter World.
Later that afternoon we moved on towards Morpeth, a town frozen in time – at least as far as its buildings are concerned, that is. We couldn’t think of anywhere better to simply relax, indulge your pleasure of shopping for bargains and also absorb the history of this Hunter River town.
Amongst the true history being made in Morpeth today is John Wright’s millet crop. The fifth-generation Wright to farm millet in the region, John now hand-makes millet brooms the old-fashioned way, which are very popular. They can be found at Campbell’s Store on the west end of the main street, and some tours of Morpeth include a stop at his small factory.
Another recommended stop is to call in to try some of the tastiest sourdough bread you’ll ever try. At the Arnott’s Bakehouse, also on Swan St, Stephen and Allison Arnott now bake their delicious loaves where Stephen’s great-great-great-grandfather, William Arnott, first baked his famous bread and – yes, those biscuits in the 1860s.
A chat with Trevor, the ‘Unofficial Mayor’ at his Campbell’s store will get you up to speed with the history of Morpeth from the past right through to the present. The shop walls are also adorned with fascinating B&W photos from the heyday of the town.
A stroll along the main street, Swan St, from Campbell’s store meant calling into a cheese shop called Gourmet or Glutton. Simply decadent but oh so yummy, owner Britt Poole tells me it’s Maitland’s only dedicated cheese delicatessan.
Sadly leaving behind Morpeth and its delights, we were off towards Broke Rd and its impressive stretch of wineries. But this time, our destination was The Hunter Valley Gardens at Pokolbin. These were a real surprise, with ten feature gardens with themes ranging from Roses to Oriental to Italian, and with statues, hedge sculptures and a waterfall. It doesn’t matter what season you visit, as the variety ensures the gardens will always be blooming with plenty of colourful plants, looking just superb all year round.
The gardens are spread over eight acres, with 8 kilometres of walking tracks, and while all are wheelchair accessible, you can hop on a small train for a 35 minute tour if you need it. We were told though that if you are able to visit around the end of the year, certainly bring the grandchildren as the Christmas lights are truly spectacular.
These magnificent, immaculate gardens really are world class and took some four years in the making – they are definitely somewhere not to be missed in the Hunter Valley. We resolved to return because one visit is simply never enough.
The Hunter is very much known for its wines, and some of the wineries here are the oldest in Australia. We decided to jump on a carriage ride from Hunter Valley Classic Carraiges for half a day to visit some unique wineries, clip-clopping along the highways and paddocks separating the wineries, trying to take in all the sights and sounds. This must surely be one of the best ways to see this Hunter Region and the slow pace is just so relaxing and enjoyable.
Naturally there are cellar door tastings at the wineries along the way and a finale that tempts taste buds to the limit. Our wagon driver Sandra Waters knew the behaviours of her two Clydesdale’s to a tee and her commentary was superb. As part of this trip take this handy tip: chat to Kevin Sobels of Sobels Winery, as a fifth-generation winemaker, he’s a true treasure trove of information.
After the relaxing pace of the morning we changed to something rather faster: off to Luskintyre Airfield to find out about their collection of Tiger Moths – 1930s biplanes used by RAAF until the 50s, and the training planes of many pilots in their day. We were lucky to speak to Brian Zeederberg, a world aerobatic champion in their planes, and very passionate about these flying machines.
On the first Saturday of the month, Luskintyre hosts a ‘Lunch with the Tigers’ day, allowing you to get up close with these magnificent machines, plus join in a BBQ lunch before a spectacular aerobatics display in fine weather.
Another stop during our time in the Hunter Valley was Kurri Kurri – a town built by coal and very proud of its heritage. Many of the locals are passionate about the town and keen to promote it for travellers, including Col, a mural guide and long-term Kurri resident.
One of the best sights of Kurri Kurri are the street murals. There are over 50 of these large murals about town, mostly on the sides of buildings, and each one with a unique story to tell. Drop into the Information Centre in the heart of town and helpful staff will be only too pleased to tell you not only all about the murals, but explain the story of the huge Kookaburra made from old car parts (and aircraft landing lights for eyes) that proudly stands in Rotary Park.
With the brand-new freeway, the Hunter Expressway, now open, Kurri Kurri is closer than ever to Newcastle. It’s a tidy town, a town with heart and one that deserves a much closer look.
Some 4 kilometres south we came upon another gem in the form of Richmond Vale Railway Museum & Mining Museum. Hundreds of dedicated volunteers work tirelessly so that we can enjoy the age of steam. The museum boasts the only model train exhibit in the world that you can only view by way of a real, full-size train ride! There’s trains and rolling stack collected from all round Australia and the place is a wonderful tribute to the volunteers who make this all possible.
The Mining Museum is nearby in the Colliery Administration Office. It has a history all to its own, so make sure you check out its collection of artefacts and photos before you leave.
Also in Kurri Kurri can be found is the wooden studio housing art works by renowned artist Peter Sesselmann. His style of painting is unusual and use of vibrant colours just has to be seen, and you might even find a lovely memento of your time in the Hunter Valley. One of his most famous paintings is that of drummer Craig ‘Rosie’ Rosevear of the Screaming Jets, which was an Archibald Prize entry in 2009.
The Sir Edgeworth David Memorial Museum, named after the famed ANtartic explorer who found coal in the Hunter region is at Kurri Kurri, has free admission. It was established in 1971 to preserve the region’s heritage, including household items, mining artefacts, sporting memorabilia, musical instruments, old radios and televisions, and newspapers. Local historian Brian Andrews is more than well qualified to help with your enquiries, especially about family history or those with an interest in the region. Well worth a visit!
So, if you want a multi-dimensional trip within about 60km of Newcastle as well as the beautiful beaches and attractions of a city by the sea with a proud history and vital part to play in Australia’s progress, then this trip might be just for you. It’s not all about the wine as you shall soon discover but after your trip here you’ll have to admit that the Hunter Valley is full of the sorts of real gems that we nomads love so much. This trip must be one of the best ways of ‘Living the Dream.’
TO SEE AND DO IN MORPETH
Campbell’s Store
Browse hundreds of gifts etc. etc.
175 Swan St, Morpeth
Ph: (02) 4934 3938
E: info@morpethgallery.com
Gourmet or Glutton
2/129 Swan St, Morpeth
Ph: (02) 4933 5233
W: www.gourmetorglutton.com.au
Morpeth Sourdough
184 Swan St, Morpeth
Ph: (02) 934 4348
W: www.morpethsourdough.com.au
CHEAP TREATS
Luskintyre Airfield
228 acres dedicated to operating and preserving heritage aircraft, particularly the 1930s Tiger Moth. ‘Lunch with the Tigers’ held the first Saturday of the month.
Luskintyre Rd, Luskintyre
W: www.luskintyreairfield.com.au
Sobels Winery
A proud 150-year-old family tradition, Kevin Sobels is a fifth-generation winemaker.
5 Halls Rd, Pokolbin
Ph: (02) 4998 7766
W: www.sobelswines.com.au
Sir Edgeworth David Memorial Museum
Established in 1971, details much of the region’s history in its libraries and archives. Free entry, open 11am-4pm Sun, Wed, and public holidays.
36 Gillies St, Kurri Kurri
Ph: (02) 4937 4418
W: www.coalfieldsheritagegroup.org
Peter Sesselman Gallery & Studio
Local icon, artist Peter Sesselman explores the Hunter through his vibrant canvasses. Gallery open Tuesday and Thursday 10am – 4.30pm.
Ph: (02) 4930 4437
W: www.peterman.com.au
Kurri Kurri Murals
Guided tours available from Visitor Centre, bookings essential, just $5 per person. Or, start from Lang St and just wander!
Ph: (02) 4936 1909
MUST SEES
Richmond Vale Railway Museum
Preserving the mining and railway heritage history in the area. Trains run first three Sundays of each month and every Sunday in school holidays, 10am-4pm, $11 concession.
Leggett’s Drive, Richmond Vale, 4km S of Kurri Kurri
Ph: (02) 4001 0197
W: www.richmondvalerailwaymuseum.org
Hunter Valley Classic Carriages
Explore the back roads of Pokolbin in unique fashion. Full day tour to 4-5 wineries, $79pp.
Ph: (02) 4991 3655
W: www.huntervalleyclassiccarriages.com.au
Fighter World
A collection of Australia’s oldest fighter aeroplanes. Pensioners $12, open every day except Christmas, 10am-4pm.
49 Medowie Rd, Williamtown
Ph: (02) 4965 1810
W: www.fighterworld.com.au
Hunter Valley Gardens
Ten unique, internationally-themed gardens that cannot be missed! Entry from $21.50, open all day, 9am-4pm.
Broke Rd, Pokolbin
Ph: (02) 4998 4000
W: www.huntervalleygardens.com.au
WHERE TO STAY
Big 4 Valley Vineyard Tourist Park
Powered and unpowered sites with mountain views, plus BBQs and some sites with ensuites. From $35/night.
137 Mt View Rd, Cessnock
Ph: 1800 649 156
E: admin@valleyvineyard.com.au
Cessnock Wine Country Caravan Park
Powered sites for overnights and longer stays. Pet-friendly and there is a shuttle bus service when events are on in the region.
Cnr Wine Country Dr and O’Connors Rd, Nulkaba
Ph: (02) 4990 5819
W: www.winecountrycaravanpark.com.au
Country Acres Caravan Park
Powered, concrete and grass sites, a pool, plus BBQs, a laundry, and internet access.
Maison Dieu Rd, Singleton
Ph: (02) 6572 2328
E: info@countryacres.com.au
W: www.countryacres.com.au