Words by Trina Morris
Photography by Caravan & Motorhome on Tour
The essence of a truly great freecamp, whether free or low cost, offers the freedom of getting close to nature in a beautiful, relaxed living environment, far away from the hype of big caravan parks. We reveal some hidden gems with spectacular scenery – locations so wonderful, you can feel the power of the ocean, touch the mountain ranges, catch the fish and experience the sunsets, right here on our pages.
THE FUTURE OF FREECAMPING
Australia is an ideal freecamping destination with a huge variety of stunning scenery, and an excellent range of free or low cost camp options. As more RVers head out on the road, the future of freecamping in Australia is looking strong. Many local communities now recognise the economic potential in welcoming RVers to their towns, and work hard to relieve us of our cash, by providing great services and attractions.
The emergence of low cost freecamps has been some cause for concern within the nomad industry, but we feel it helps to remember that trends in the introduction of low fees usually correspond with the provision of better facilities. Many freecamps with low fees now offer new toilets, sometimes showers, dump points, landscaped areas for flatter parking, picnic tables with shelters, BBQs or fireplaces.
In the current economic climate the user-pays system is gaining momentum, so it is inevitable that, as more services are provided (not just for our comfort and convenience, but to protect the environment and ensure public health and safety), we will need to contribute a little towards the cost of the services we use.
It is important to provide constructive feedback to towns providing freecamps, as this will go a long way to communicating our needs and desires of what a great freecamp should, or shouldn’t, offer. But give credit where credit is due, and remember to praise RV friendly towns when they get it right, rather than only complain about excessive fees for minimal facilities.
When we stay in a town freecamp, we like to keep track of our expenditure and let the local council or chamber of commerce know, how many hundreds of dollars we spent in their town, and how much we appreciated their services and their beautiful environs. They love to hear their efforts are paying off!
TEN SCENIC SPOTS
Once in a while, a nomad will drop a comment about a great freecamp that turns out to be a brilliant recommendation. Such was our experience when we drove off the asphalt in a tiny town called Minnipa, 100 km east of Streaky Bay, or 270 km west of Port Augusta, and headed north. “There’s a nice rock out there” turned out to be the understatement of the century!
Immense Pildappa Rock rivals Wave Rock in WA – as impressively beautiful, yet much more accessible, being only 15 km off Highway One! Its four-storey-high curved wall of weathered pink granite stretches the length of the campground, providing a spectacular backdrop. The rock can be easily climbed, revealing curious water holes, and spectacular views of the surrounding farmlands and the Gawler Ranges. At sunset, the weathered edge of the rock glows a cheery orange. Beautiful!
The pet friendly campground is well serviced by drop toilets, a free gas BBQ, sheltered tables and bins, but water is no longer available. A drive around the rock’s perimeter on arrival will reveal plenty of campsite options, but remember to stop by the shelter in the main picnic ground, because camping at Pildappa is by donation – a request we should always respect.
We chatted with neighbours, Murray and Cushla from Brisbane, who agree Pildappa Rock campground is the perfect base for a day tour to the Gawler Ranges, where more amazing rock formations can be seen. Nearby Tcharkaldu Hill is also a must-see destination, for stunning displays of the power of nature in weathering granite rock into spectacular shapes.
Cosy Corner, Bay of Fires, TAS
“Simply the best” was the judgment of The Bay of Fires Conservation Park recommended by two Tasmanian couples we met recently, in an isolated Nullarbor Plains freecamp. We were chatting with Graeme, Irene, Rex and Jan about our favourite freecamps, and Cosy Corner campground in The Bay of Fires was easily included in the top ten list, for its stunning beauty and tranquility.
Although the Bay of Fires is packed with spectacular freecamps, Cosy Corner North is our particular favourite. This lovely coastal location has sheltered camping pockets amongst she-oaks and eucalypts, which are so close to the pristine white sands of the beach you can catch the fish from your campfire. The outlook has stunning views over a lovely little bay of pale blue water, capped by a low granite headland, and bordered by large boulders, each with a crown of bright orange tidal lichen. Lovely coastal vegetation frames the picture and completes an incredible palette of colour that Cosy Corner really has to be seen to be believed.
The various freecamps in the Bay of Fires are currently free of fees, but I’ve heard murmurs that fees are being considered. Irrespective of this, the low fees generally charged by TAS Parks & Wildlife Service are usually quite reasonable, given that they provide good facilities. Cosy Corner is no exception, as a new toilet facility has recently been installed. There are no other facilities – just utterly beautiful coastal scenery all around.
Well managed pets are welcome at Cosy Corner, it has a very generous stay limit of 30 days, and there are lovely walks from the northern end of the campground.
The nearby town of St Helens is a very popular coastal tourism destination with arguably the best deep sea fishing charters in Tasmania. The farmlands and forests in the coastal hinterland offer delicious dairy produce and spectacular waterfalls, accessed by lovely fern-glade walks.
Pyramid Campground, Porcupine Gorge National Park, QLD
Sometimes a freecamp can be memorable for the stark incongruity of ‘beauty out of place.’ Pyramid Campground in the Porcupine Gorge National Park of Queensland’s far northern outback, is one such location. 60km north of Hughenden and 400 km inland of Townsville, the gorge is a 25 km long chasm of carved sandstone, strikingly placed, like a deep slash wound in the flesh of a relatively uninspiring, sparsely wooded savannah plain.
The gorge lookout reveals a staggering scene of rugged beauty – towering, jagged rock cliffs and deep, curvaceous waterholes have been carved over millennia by Porcupine Creek. 10 km further north, the canyon widens, exposing an immense triangular conglomeration of coloured sandstone boulders, which gives the nearby Pyramid Campground its name.
In the dry winter season, a 2.5km walk through the floor of the canyon provokes an irresistible and fascinating exploration of the local ecosystem. Each beautiful rock pool has its own resident turtle, and visiting marsupials and unique birdlife feed and drink beneath interesting vegetation that clings to cliffs above. In the wet season, the canyon becomes a raging torrent, and the power of nature reveals how the canyon was formed.
The Pyramid Campground has only basic facilities and no reliable fresh water, but the fees are low at only $5.50 per person per night, or $22.00 per family. There are bans on pets, campfires and generators at Pyramid Campground and bookings are advisable, although limited self-issued permits can also be secured on site. When dry, the gravel road provides reasonable access, but can be temporarily impassable after storms and in the wet season.
Comparable to Carnarvon Gorge further south, Porcupine Gorge is undoubtedly a place of spectacular beauty in the Australian outback.
Parry Beach, William Bay, WA
Nestled on the far south western coast of the Australian continent is the beautiful settlement of Denmark, with Ocean Beach just to the south. Stretching west from there, across 5km of glorious squeaky white-silica sand of Mazzoletti Beach, is the stunningly beautiful William Bay National Park. The narrow beach front is backed by huge sand dunes, and various pools, reefs, bays and boulders combine to create some of the loveliest coastal scenery found anywhere.
At the eastern end of the bay is Greens Pool – a place of serenity and tranquillity – where calm emerald waters lap at the beach in a cove sheltered by a natural reef. Here, and at nearby Elephant Rocks, you can see ancient domed rock formations, which date back 1.5 billion years! The pool is perfect for snorkelling and is a great place for young families, or the young at heart, to relax in complete safety.
Shorter versions of WA’s magnificent karri and jarrah forest trees have adapted to this coastal environment, and just a little inland, they tower skywards in classic fashion. The fabulous Valley of the Giants Treetop Walk enables visitors to wander in the canopy of these awesome specimens, and is a must-do attraction.
The nearby freecamp at Parry Beach is at the extreme western end of the bay, just over the inlet from the national park. The facilities are simple, clean and cheap, with all the basics needed to enjoy a three week stay – the maximum time allowed. The campground’s beach has a gentle drop off so is lovely for swimming, and a second beach, down a short 4WD track, has rough surf that is ideal for board riders. Parry Beach provides excellent surf, rock and reef fishing, and a rock shelf between the two beaches is a great coastal playground.
Murray River, NSW/VIC
There are two things that lull me into a dream state: the flickering flames of a campfire, and the lazy passage of a river. In the delightful campgrounds along the banks of the Murray River, these two natural sedatives can be enjoyed simultaneously.
The twenty freecamps between Rutherglen and Echuca are renowned for their scenic beauty. Huge river red gums, which stand beside the river when it is sleepy and slow, or in it when it’s a swollen, flood-filled force, are nothing short of magnificent. They are awe-inspiring, standing proud and solid against the power of the river, providing shade for campers and habitat for all manner of feathered and furred creatures. The presence of the river means campsites are well grassed – sometimes a little too lush – and most have sandy beaches for play, fishing and boat access to the river.
Our favourite Murray River camps are Hinches Beach in the Mulwala Regional Park on the NSW side of the river, and Police Paddocks in the Gooramadda State Forest, near Rutherglen, on the Victorian riverbank. There are no facilities so only self-contained vehicles need apply, but these two campgrounds have all the elements we love: stunning riverside beauty, pet friendliness, and campfires permitted (outside the Oct/Easter fire ban period).
Best of all, Police Paddocks is within a good cycle ride of Rutherglen, our favourite wine district, to satisfy our other great love – tasting wine and gourmet foods. We might be a bit wobbly on the way back, but it’s a sensational day out!
There is so much to see and do in the Murray and nearby Ovens valleys – mostly associated with swallowing – that you might find the tranquillity and beauty of these campgrounds somewhat distracting, but we recommend you soldier on, and work hard at relaxing!
Wangi Falls, Litchfield National Park, NT
If your idea of scenic beauty extends to stunningly pure waterholes (with or without resident crocodiles), back-dropped by cascading waterfalls and lush tropical vegetation, then Litchfield National Park is definitely for you!
The ancient Litchfield landscape, carved by water and shaped by time, is stunning. There’s a fabulous range of thundering year-round waterfalls to visit, peaceful rock pools to swim in, rainforests to explore, wildlife to spot, and intriguing magnetic termite mounds to investigate.
Located 100 km south-west of Darwin, the park is accessible all year on sealed roads from Batchelor, and also via the unsealed Cox Peninsula Road in the dry season. All 4WD tracks are closed during the wet season, which restricts access to some of the attractions.
Wangi Falls campground is beautiful and a cool dip in the waterhole is a favourite for many visitors. It has a fabulous walk, starting from the plunge pool, which leads visitors 800m to the top of the falls. Although swimming at Wangi is possible most of the year, high water levels can increase the risk of crocodile presence, so there are times when the water hole is restricted to sightseeing only.
Wangi campground is one of many places to stay in Litchfield National Park but is popular because of the beautiful waterfall and forests at its doorstep, and its easy access by 2WDs and caravans. It is well serviced by toilets, showers and BBQs, but only unpowered sites are available. The cost of a campsite is reasonable at less than $10 per adult per night.
While Wangi is a great place to stay, our favourite waterfall and swimming hole is Florence Falls, with lovely Buley Rockhole en-route. Since ‘Flo’ requires a little more effort to reach, it’s generally less crowded than popular Wangi falls, which can be very busy on weekends.
Wangoe Farm, Kalbarri, WA
The stunningly beautiful Kalbarri National Park, 155 km north of Geraldton, is where the mighty Murchison River meets the Indian Ocean. It has amazing beauty, with rugged coastal rock formations, wild river gorges, pristine sandy beaches, and azure blue waters. The dramatic river gorges of the Murchison River can be readily accessed by river cruises or paddle-power. Kalbarri is arguably the best whale watching region in WA, experiencing slow and playful encounters during the southern whale migration from September to November.
Stunning wildflower displays between July and October transform the dry sand plains of this coastal outback region into a kaleidoscope of colour, and the sunsets over the sea are absolutely spectacular in this region.
All this can be enjoyed from your base, at the ‘Wagoe Chalet and Campground’. Wagoe is an 800 ha sheep and cattle farm located 20 km south of Kalbarri. The McClintock family welcome visitors to their private piece of paradise and offer great facilities: from classy chalets to powered and unpowered camp sites, which overlook beautiful dunes stretching a kilometre to Wagoe Beach.
Camp fees – from $20.00pn for two people – are at the upper end of what we term ‘low cost’ freecamping, but guests say it is definitely worth it. Harold Hall, who visits Wagoe religiously, says there is nothing more wonderful than the feel of a good tug on your fishing rod, while being awed by breathtaking sunsets and watching passing whales, all at the same time. Another visitor, Jo, says: “I’m really stunned by the beauty of this setting.” She’s right, you know!
Kingston, SA
It is rare to come across a freecamp within the boundary of a township, which meets our criteria of peaceful, relaxed living in a stunningly beautiful environment. Kingston SE came strongly recommended by Ned and Gae from Bundaberg QLD, and it exceeded our expectations. The sunsets over the ocean are jaw-droppingly beautiful, and the fishing is superb. Located 100 km NW of Mt Gambier, on the coastal route to Adelaide, Kingston is now a firm favourite, and we look forward to returning.
The freecamp, open to self-contained vehicles, is right in town, so you don’t even need to unhitch the rig. Signage says it is limited to 24 hour stop-overs (although many RVers stay for a couple of nights), but there are two other longer stay freecamps if you want to kick on in Kingston. Wyomi Beach and Pinks Beach are four and six kilometres to the south respectively, and the pick of them is Wyomi Beach.
We enjoy cycling, and there’s a superb 6 km cycle/walking track along the beachfront from Kingston to Pinks Beach, so staying a little out of town for a week, then in town for a day or two at the jetty, suited us well.
Although Kingston is truly beautiful, with the most memorable sunsets we have seen, night after night, it is also the town and the townspeople that make this place special. The community of Kingston has an “inner scenic beauty” and is warm and welcoming. The facilities provided by this very RV-friendly town rate ten out of ten: the parks and gardens are immaculate, the public toilets are spotless, and the beaches are long and dog friendly. We spent many happy days sharing good times with fellow travellers, laughing over happy hour stories as those magnificent sunsets glowed in the western sky, above Kingston’s lovely jetty.
Aire River, The Otways, VIC
The Otway region on the Great Ocean Road is a personal favourite of ours, and the freecamp at Aire River is absolutely superb. Nestled beside the peaceful waterway, bounded by bulrushes and manna gum forests with resident koalas, this freecamp is sheltered, beautiful… and free! After you’ve trundled over a quaint timber bridge, you can choose from large open grassy areas, or smaller tree-lined pockets for more private campsites.
We met some lovely campers at Aire River who return year after year. The men are keen fishers and girls love walking (and talking), so they say Aire River is their absolute favourite freecamp. Alan from QLD recommends Aire River as a superb water-play destination: he says the scenic beauty of the river, sheltered by the surrounding forested hills, ensures idyllic conditions for paddling, fishing, swimming and just lazing by the waters’ edge.
Facilities are limited to pit toilets, picnic tables and fireplaces, and since the freecamp is in the Great Otway National Park, pets are prohibited. (Nearby Johanna Beach campground, while not as scenic as Aire River, nor as sheltered, allows pets.)
The lush Otway forests, waterfalls and rugged coastlines are a nature-lovers delight and the Aire River Escarpment Lookout walk, based from the campground, is a beauty, with fabulous views over the river, Hordenvale Wetlands, and the ocean. The towns of Apollo Bay and Lavers Hill, within 30 km of Aire River campground, provide great services and wonderful attractions to complete your stay.
Ubirr Rock, Kakadu National Park, NT
Kakadu is simply exquisite! This World Heritage-listed national park is an Australian icon, and Ubirr Rock, in Kakadu’s far northeast, is a must-see destination. Its stunning beauty is comparable only to its significance as an Aboriginal cultural historic site.
At Ubirr you are 100% guaranteed to see animals from the area, such as barramundi, catfish, mullet, goannas, long-necked turtles, pig-nosed turtles, rock ringtail possums, and wallabies. This is because all these creatures are beautifully represented in easily accessible Aboriginal rock paintings, some dating back 40,000 years.
A gentle walk from the car park leads visitors to the rock art sites and then on to the foot of Ubirr Rock. The 250m climb to the top is moderately steep, requiring some agility, but the astounding views from the top provide panoramic vistas of the floodplains and rocky escarpments. Truly awe-inspiring!
Be sure to time your visit to Ubirr Rock late in the day. Not only are you more likely to catch a glimpse of the elusive rock wallaby, which comes out to feed at dusk, but also the best time to experience the magic of Ubirr is at sunset. It is a truly spiritual place, where you can feel the beauty!
The nearby Sandstone and River Bushwalk also provides lovely views of Cat Fish Creek, the East Alligator River, billabongs, sandstone rock formations and Kakadu’s floodplains. It’s an easy 6.5 km circuit and takes around four hours.
The freecamp at Ubirr Rock is called Merle Camping Area. It has excellent facilities and reasonable fees of $10 per adult per night. Bookings are not taken, so if visiting in peak season, arrive early! The access road across the floodplains from Jabiru to Ubirr can be impassable after storms, so check access and be flexible, especially in the wet season.