VINTAGE IN THE VALLEY
WORDS BY BEVERLEY PRIDEAUX,
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BEVERLEY PRIDEAUX
ADDITIONAL IMAGES BY JENNIFER DUNCAN AND VICKI HENDERSON
Western Australia’s secret wine region
Western Australian wine is often on the wish list for travelers from the eastern edge of this wide continent. The little known Blackwood Valley wine region is located between the Margaret River and Great Southern wine regions in the south of WA. It includes the historic settlements of Boyup Brook, Bridgetown, Greenbushes, Balingup and Nannup and the beautiful Blackwood River.
The 300 kilometre long Blackwood River has 41 tributaries and is a major river system with many contrasting landscapes in the 28,000sq kilometre catchment. Take the road less travelled and discover the secrets for yourself.
The majority of travelers arriving via the southern gateway of Esperance and Albany will travel north hugging the coast and Southern Forests to get to Margaret River. Or they’ll take the Albany Highway (State Highway 30) through the Wool Belt to Perth and historic Swan Valley.
Both groups will miss all of the Blackwood Valley, a region recognized for its ideal viticultural environment, and most of the Manjimup-Pemberton wine region. Not only is the experience on offer very different to that of the better known and highly-promoted wine regions, the all-weather sealed road is shorter and carries less traffic.
Getting there
So, you’ve got your breath back after taking in the lovely old harbour town of Albany and now you are ready to head north. After the long trek across the Nullarbor, even the most intrepid caravanner or motorhome pilot will enjoy a road with less traffic.
Decision time. There are choices and one of them is not yet well known. In fact if your maps are not up-to-date the recently-sealed Wingebellup Road may not show as much more than a track.
You could follow the coast on National Route 1 and State Highway 10 for 377 kilometres across to Margaret River, or take the 450km inland route on State Highway 30 that will have you in the eastern suburbs of Perth and close to the Swan Valley.
But, what if there was a quiet, easy-driving sealed road that few tourists knew about?
Approximately 200kms from Albany, after driving through the vineyards of the Frankland River region and olive groves that are some of the largest in the southern hemisphere, you’ll enter the south eastern corner of the Blackwood Valley wine region. Another 50kms and you’ll find Boyup Brook on the banks of the Blackwood River. The village is a designated RV Friendly town with all the usual amenities: shops, doctor, hospital, pharmacist and Tourist Information Centre.
Take a break to look at the widely acclaimed Carnaby Beetle and Butterfly Collection housed at the Visitor Centre, holograms and sand sculptures by local sculptor and artist Sandy Chambers, the Sandakan Memorial and local museum before moving on.
Back on the road for a short drive
Follow the signs to Bridgetown and 15 kilometres later you’ll find Chudacud Estate conveniently located about halfway between Boyup Brook and Bridgetown.
Chudacud Estate is an RV Friendly boutique winery and tavern with the delightful hosts, Jenny and Ian Duncan. And nothing about it is ostentatious – just rustic, rural and relaxed.
Fancy a day or two in a friendly country atmosphere, no rush, and no hassles?
When you arrive you may find you have the place to yourself, or there might be a caravan club parked up enjoying the solitude.
Chudacud Estate is not your usual caravan park. Chudacud is a small working winery and vineyard and part of the RV Friendly group. Their forte is catering for visitors in a friendly manner, and staging music and other events to suit the motoring tourist.
“We feel as if we’ve been staying over with friends or family,” is a frequent comment from travelers.
Arriving unannounced is fine; the sign on the road will let you know whether they are open. For groups though, booking is essential for catering purposes. Dogs are permitted, but must be under control at all times. Like many vineyards, livestock is part of the scenario at Chudacud with alpacas and sheep grazing close to the cellar door.
Entertainment is an optional extra
Chuck in a local Bush Poet, friendly hosts, a spot of quiet wine tasting and a wander through Jenny’s shed full of treasures or the delightful garden and you’ll be happy to stay a day or three. You might want to be part of a crowd staying for the weekend with entertainment and catering laid on. Friday night is traditionally BBQ night, Saturday night is your choice. Jenny is very accommodating, with menus and entertainment arranged in advance to suit the groups preferences.
If you want to drag yourself away from the quiet valley views over the vineyard, there is a wide selection of attractions in the surrounding valley villages.
Remember the three R’s of Chudacud – rustic, rural and relaxed!
Did you miss the Melbourne Cup?
Chudacud can help you feel less deprived. Join in on Cup Day watching the big race on a big screen, no sunburn, no broken heels, just good wine, food and company.
Or better still, become a part of the Chudacud Cup. The horses are easy to control, you won’t need a helmet or whip. But you might need a thick skin if the heckling from your friends gets a bit too raucous. The race is definitely ‘rigged’, the horses are on wires which are wound towards the ‘jockey’, similar to reeling in a fish!
Wattle Ridge Estate
Just around the corner from Chudacud is another RV Friendly boutique cellar door to visit. Jim and Vicky Henderson at Wattle Ridge Estate also have a campsite and quality wines for you to taste.
Sunnyhurst Estate
A short drive away in Bridgetown is Sunnyhurst Estate, home of winemaker Mark Staniforth and artist wife Lorraine. Although not an RV site, there is turn around space at the top of the hill. Their cellar door features a gallery of Lorraine’s very popular creations.
Shedleys
A little further afield, another Blackwood Valley wine producing family concentrates on wines from lesser known varieties. While father Chris has his focus on the vineyard, fermentations and the reds slumbering in oak, daughter Alannah Shedley has taken over the non-alcoholic grape juice production. A cool and refreshing way for the designated driver to safely enjoy a sip or two.
Although not officially an RV Friendly site there is plenty of room to turn around and park up for a while.
The Blackwood Valley – a happening place, all year around
There is always something happening in the valley, music, food wine, art, horses, gardening, speedboats, marathon relays, repertory, wine shows and more. The trick is to find time to take it all in!
Winter in the Blackwood Valley has many attractions and events featuring food and wine with a jazz festival centering on Bridgetown and Balingup.
Summer sees Country Music Festivals, Ute and Truck Muster, rodeos and camp drafting at Boyup Brook. And in October a marathon relay runs between Boyup Brook and Bridgetown. There are myriad other activities and the list continues to grow.
If you are still itching for a look at Margaret River after seeing the Blackwood Valley and Southern Forests regions, there are several bitumen roads to take you to that part of the coast.
MUST SEES
Harvey Dickson’s Country Music Centre
Elvis Presley record room and memorabilia. One-hour tours by appointment, $10/pp. Just out of Boyup Brook on the Arthur River-Dinninup Road – Bush camping
Ph: Harvey or Rose (08) 9765 1125
W: www.harveydickson.com.au
Carnaby Beetles and Butterflies
Boyup Brook Info Centre. 10am – 4pm, Free
Ph: (08) 9765 1444
Bridgetown Jigsaw Gallery and Museum
154 Hampton Street, Bridgetown. Gold coin donation.
Ph: (08) 9761 1740
Old Goal and Museum
Hampton Street, Bridgetown. Open weekends, gold coin entry.
MORE INFORMATION
Chudacud Estate
Lot 22 Wade Rd, Bridgetown
Ph: (08) 9764 4053
W: www.chudacudwinerytavern.com.au
Shedleys
Ph: (08) 9761 7512
W: www.shedleywines.com
Sunnyhurst Estate
Ph: (08) 9761 4525
W: www.sunnyhurst.com.au
Wattle Ridge
Ph: (08) 9764 3594
W: www.wattleridgewines.com.au
Albany Tourist Association
Ph: (08) 9841 9290
W: www.amazingalbany.com
E: avc@albanytourist.com.au
Bridgetown-Greenbushes Visitor Information Centre
Ph: (08) 9761 1740
W: www.bridgetown.com.au
E: VCentre1@bridgetown.wa.gov.au
Boyup Brook Tourist Information Centre
Ph: (08) 9765 1444
W: www.boyupbrooktourism.com.au
E: bbvisitor@westnet.com.au
WHERE TO STAY
Boyup Brook Old Flax Mill Caravan Park
30 powered sites, 6 with ensuite. Laundry, showers, toilets. Dump site.
Free camps on the outskirts of Boyup Brook
Accessible from Cranbrook-Boyup Brook Road.
Tone Bridge overnight stop or picnic area
BBQ, shelter and toilet by the river.
Mullidup Pool – on the Tone River
No facilities – could be damp after rain.
Old Heartlea Forestry Settlement
32kms from Boyup Brook on Cranbrook Road. Shelter and Toilet
Jayes Bridge shelter area by river
Suitable for caravans. Cobbler fishing.