By Bonnie S. Benwick
Somebody got smart about promoting the early onslaught of healthful cookbooks in 2015: The word “diet” has gone missing from many titles, and that alone might make eating-better resolutions more of a lifestyle change than a hostile takeover.
Hearth chef-restaurateur Marco Canora’s personal journey (from over-carbed and tired to peppy and 30 pounds lighter) led him to produce “A Good Food Day,” offering ways to “reboot your health with food that tastes great.” First among his 10 steps: Eating must be enjoyable. British food writer Annie Bell focused her savvy on reducing sugar/carb addictions in “Low Carb Revolution: Comfort Eating for Good Health,” with her omnivorous gusto evident in Slow-Roast Salt and Pepper Duck and garlicky, spicy mushroom caps.
Even the editors of Martha Stewart Living have served up “Clean Slate,” with nutritional analyses — some of which are eye-opening, such as the 37 grams of fat in one serving of their farro spaghetti with fresh tomatoes and Marcona almonds.
But hey! We’re onboard with Washington Post Nourish columnist Ellie Krieger, who says the type of fat is more significant than the total number of fat grams.
We’ve tested recipes from the new crop of books that just might see you through to seasons with fewer layers of clothing, and beyond.
POUNDED CHICKEN
Pounded Chicken. Making chicken breast halves thinner yields a dish that looks like a huge portion on the plate. [Deb Lindsey/The Washington Post]
4 servings
The best results come from using small chicken breast halves, because they are easier to pound out to a uniform thinness. Chef Marco Canora notes in his recipe, quite rightly, that such treatment yields what looks like a huge portion on the plate.
You’ll need a meat pounder with a toothy side. For different flavours, see the VARIATIONS, below.
Serve over salad greens.
Adapted from “A Good Food Day: Reboot Your Health With Food That Tastes Great,” by Canora and Tammy Walker (Clarkson Potter, 2014).
Ingredients
Four 6-to-8-ounce boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, tenderloins removed
12 large fresh sage leaves, coarsely chopped
Leaves from 2 sprigs rosemary, coarsely chopped
2 small cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
Finely grated zest of 2 small lemons, plus 4 lemons cut into wedges, for serving
2 teaspoons kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
8 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus 1/4 cup for frying
Steps
Starting at the thicker side of one chicken breast half, make a horizontal cut lengthwise through the middle of the meat, stopping before cutting all the way through. Fold the breast half open like a book. (It should still be in one piece.) Place it between two large pieces of plastic wrap and use the flat side of a meat mallet to pound it on both sides, working from the center outward, to an even thickness of about 1/4 inch; it will be at least double its original size. Leave it between the pieces of plastic wrap; repeat to pound and flatten all of the breast halves.
Pile the coarsely chopped sage, rosemary and garlic on a cutting board with the lemon zest; chop together until well blended. Transfer to a small bowl and add the salt, a few grinds of black pepper and 8 teaspoons of the oil; stir to combine into a loose paste.
Remove the top pieces of plastic wrap and divide half of the herb paste evenly among the four flattened breast halves, rubbing it all over the surface of the meat. Re-cover with the plastic wrap and use the toothed side of the meat mallet to gently pound the paste into the meat. Flip the breast halves over, remove the top pieces of plastic wrap and top with the remaining half of the herb paste, rubbing it into the meat. Re-cover and pound lightly with the toothed side of the meat mallet. (At this point, the pounded, seasoned chicken breast halves can be wrapped tightly and refrigerated for up to 2 days.)
When ready to cook, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Once the oil shimmers and just begins to smoke, add 1 pounded chicken breast half, then place a heavy-bottomed pot on top of it to weight it down. Cook for 45 seconds, then turn the chicken over, add the weight and cook for 45 seconds. Transfer it to a plate to rest for at least 3 minutes.
Meanwhile, repeat with the remaining pounded chicken breast halves, cooking them one at a time, wiping out the skillet and adding oil each time, and letting the oil heat to smoking before cooking.
VARIATIONS: Combine 2 teaspoons of ground cinnamon, 2 teaspoons of freshly grated nutmeg, 2 teaspoons of ground ginger, 2 teaspoons of kosher salt and several grinds of black pepper in a small bowl. Divide half of the mixture evenly across the tops of the pounded chicken breast halves, rubbing it into the meat, then drizzle each breast half with 1/2 teaspoon of the maple syrup. Re-cover with plastic wrap and use the toothed side of the meat mallet to gently pound the seasoning into the meat. Flip the breast halves over, remove the top pieces of plastic wrap and rub in equal amounts of the remaining spice mixture, then drizzle 1/2 teaspoon of maple syrup over each piece. Re-cover and use the toothed side of the meat mallet to pound lightly. Unwrap and cook as directed above.
Whisk together 2 teaspoons of garlic powder, 2 teaspoons of dried oregano, 2 teaspoons of kosher salt, 4 teaspoons of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, several grinds of black pepper and 4 teaspoons of extra-virgin olive oil in a small bowl. Divide half of the mixture evenly across the tops of the pounded chicken breast halves and add 1/4 teaspoon of tomato paste to each breast half; rub in the seasoning mixture and tomato paste. Re-cover with plastic wrap and use the toothed side of the meat mallet to gently pound the seasoning into the meat. Turn the breast halves over, remove the top pieces of plastic wrap and rub in equal amounts of the remaining seasoning mixture plus 1/4 teaspoon tomato paste for each one. Re-cover and use the toothed side of the meat mallet to pound lightly. Unwrap and cook as directed above.
Nutrition | Per serving: 330 calories, 38 g protein, 0 g carbohydrates, 18 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 125 mg cholesterol, 1,040 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fibre, 0 g sugar
CINNAMON POPOVERS WITH CREAM CHEESE GLAZE
Cinnamon Popovers with Cream Cheese Glaze. These popovers are best eaten right away. [Deb Lindsey/The Washington Post]
6 to 12 servings (makes 12 pieces)
These quick, eggy popovers have all the appeal of a classic cinnamon bun, but they are made with fewer eggs and less butter than most popovers and therefore have fewer calories. They are best eaten right away.
Adapted from “Supermarket Healthy: Recipes & Know-How for Eating Well Without Spending a Lot,” by Melissa d’Arabian (Clarkson Potter, 2014).
Ingredients
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 cup low-fat milk, warmed, plus 2 tablespoons
1 cup flour
1/2 to 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1/4 cup Neufchatel cheese (may substitute low-fat cream cheese)
1/4 cup confectioners’ sugar
Steps
Place a muffin pan with 12 standard-size wells on the middle oven rack; preheat to 400 degrees.
Combine the eggs and granulated sugar in a blender; mix on medium speed until light yellow. Stop to add the cup of warm milk; mix until blended. Stop to add the flour, cinnamon (to taste) and salt; blend to form a thin, frothy batter.
Use a pastry brush to spread the melted butter in each well of the hot muffin pan; drizzle any remaining butter into the batter. Divide the batter evenly among the wells. Bake for about 20 minutes; do not open the oven door during that time.
Turn off the oven; leave the popovers inside for 15 to 18 minutes, so they become golden brown.
Meanwhile, whisk together the Neufchatel cheese, confectioners’ sugar and the remaining 2 tablespoons of milk until smooth.
Remove the popovers from the oven. Immediately use a sharp paring knife to poke a small slit at the top of each one; that will allow steam to escape so the popovers won’t get soggy. Brush or drizzle the glaze over each one. Serve right away.
Nutrition | Per serving (based on 12): 100 calories, 3 g protein, 12 g carbohydrates, 4 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 40 mg cholesterol, 115 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fibre, 4 g sugar
NO-BAKE OAT BARS WITH STRAWBERRIES
No-Bake Oat Bars with Strawberries. The bars fare best when also individually wrapped in plastic wrap. [Deb Lindsey/The Washington Post]
6 servings
This quick snack offers a moist, juicy chew.
MAKE AHEAD: The bars can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 day; they fare best when also individually wrapped in plastic wrap.
Adapted from “Clean Slate,” from the editors of Martha Stewart Living (Clarkson Potter, 2014).
Ingredients
1 1/2 cups pitted dates
1/4 cup raw macadamia nuts
2 tablespoons old-fashioned rolled oats
Pinch sea salt
1 1/2 cups hulled, thinly sliced fresh strawberries
Steps
Combine the dates, nuts, oats and salt in a food processor; pulse until the mixture starts to stick together. Press into a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan.
Use a potato masher or fork to mash half of the strawberries in a bowl. Spread them over the oat mixture. Arrange the remaining strawberries on top. Cut crosswise into 6 equal slices.
Nutrition | Per serving: 160 calories, 2 g protein, 33 g carbohydrates, 5 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 45 mg sodium, 4 g dietary fibre, 26 g sugar
MUSHROOMS BAKED WITH GARLIC, LEMON AND CHILI PEPPER
Mushrooms Baked with Garlic, Lemon and Chili Pepper. These zingy caps taste just as good with roast meats as they do with brunch eggs.
[Deb Lindsey/The Washington Post]
4 servings
These zingy caps are a little retro. They taste just as good with roast meats as they do with brunch eggs.
Adapted from “Low Carb Revolution: Comfort Eating for Good Health,” by Annie Bell (Kyle, 2015).
Ingredients
8 medium flat, wide stem-on mushrooms
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 small, fresh red chili pepper, seeded and minced
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Steps
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Arrange the mushrooms stems up in a baking dish. Divide the garlic, chili pepper and lemon zest among the mushrooms, scattering those ingredients evenly. Drizzle with the oil, dot with the butter and season lightly with salt and pepper. Roast for 25 minutes, until browned and fragrant.
Transfer the mushrooms to a serving platter. Sprinkle with the lemon juice and parsley. Serve hot.
Nutrition | Per serving: 160 calories, 2 g protein, 4 g carbohydrates, 16 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 15 mg cholesterol, 70 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fibre, 1 g sugar