Avenue de Clichy by Louis Anquetin; Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
Artists taking inspiration from other artists working across mediums can have interesting results. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, the perfumer behind DSH Perfumes, has developed an ongoing relationship with the Denver Art Museum, and there was interest in what kinds of fragrances she could create based on their “Passport to Paris” show of 19th century French art. Ms. Hurwitz was intrigued, because “I also knew that the exhibit was showcasing many 19th Century images and artifacts and I must admit that I have always been wildly attracted to Antique, Vintage, and Historical perfumes. I have a genuine love for classical perfume designs. I have been working on creating a small museum of perfumes so that people could experience the beauty and diversity of bygone eras. I am sure that the perfumes in the museum also informed the work, so, ultimately, it was a mutual attraction.” Three images struck her in particular, and inspired her to create a trio of fragrances that bring to mind perfumery of the past while still having a toe in the modern world: Vers la Violette, Passport à Paris, and Amouse Bouche.
The Dunce's Cap by Toulouse Lautrec
Strawberry in perfume can be cloying, like bubblegum, or it can be juicy and delicious like the note used in Amouse Bouche. Inspired by a drawing by Toulouse Lautrec, “The Dunce’s Cap”, the perfume is joyful and unusual. Ms. Hurwitz had several reasons why this image spoke to her: “The Dunce's Cap seemed perfect for Amouse Bouche as it has that fun/funny/quirky element as well as the fact that it is by Lautrec. Lautrec's work in general, to my mind, lends itself to the rich Chypre or Oriental style. I also have to admit that I liked the color of the paper. For me it was very evocative of part of the feel that I wanted Amouse Bouche to have; something with a creamy softness to it.” Aldehydes and strawberry burst open at first spray, amidst a swirl of light floral notes. The strawberry is fresh from the field, not sugared. The aldehydes provide a powdery lift that is apparent in the sillage, as it kept surprising me with lovely puffs of scent. The slightly woody, cozy drydown retains some of the sweetness of the lingering strawberry. This fragrance is lovely throughout its long skin life.
Notes: Aldehydes, Strawberry, Bergamot, Lemon (top), Grandiflorum Jasmine, Bulgarian Rose, Neroli, Ylang Ylang, Butter co2 (Heart) and Tahitian Vanilla, Ambrette Seed co2, Caramel, Tonka Bean, Australian Sandalwood, and Vetiver (base)
Village by Hippolyte Petitjean
Vers la Violette, inspired by Hipolyte Petitjean’s painting “Village” pays tribute to the classic perfumery note violet. Ms. Hurwitz explains why this painting fits her idea of this perfume: “I loved the abstract shape making as well as the colors. It all fit with the kind of violet that I was wanting to create. Violet perfumes can be so Victorian and I wanted to touch upon that feeling while creating something truly modern and universal as well. The image felt as though it was looking forward to the urban skyline, had a balance of masculine and feminine, and the extra brightness of the hues were in line perfectly, I feel, with the kind of modern violet that was created.” Violet is a note that can really suck me in or really put me off. I have to say that Vers a Violette is in the “sucks me in” category. This perfume is not the candied variety of violet, but a rich, earthy one. It is interesting and complex, with the familiar violet aroma peeking out every so often to tantalize. The leathery notes emerge as the perfume wears, and creates a wonderful aroma that I would like to put on a man I want to snuggle. It is a unisex scent, and hopefully a man would also want to snuggle me when I am wearing it. It grows closer to the skin fairly quickly, but has good staying power. I kept huffing to explore the lovely changes this perfume makes throughout its evolution.
Notes: Galbanum, Bergamot, Lemon, Violet Leaf abs. (top), Cyclamen, Orange Flower abs, Ionone, Orris Root co2, and Bulgarian Rose (heart), Wood Violet, Mysore Sandalwood, oakmoss, Labdanum, Suede, and Civet (base).
The Beach at Trouville by Claude Monet
Claude Monet’s painting “The Beach at Trouville” had Ms. Hurwitz wanting to create Passport à Paris “because it depicts the type of people I feel would wear the scent. It shows them enjoying the summertime and the beach, but they are in finery and meant to look (and smell!) very smart. The Idea for Passport was for a very universal design that was fresh enough to wear on Holiday at the seaside but also when in town.” Also created as an homage to two perfume classics, Guerlain Jicky and Houbigant Fougère Royale, this fragrance is an instant classic itself. Redolent at the top with bright citrus and a shimmering floral lavender, I felt rejuvenated immediately upon applying, and surrounded by an aroma that was viscerally familiar but still new and modern. As the fragrance wears, it settles into a comfortable, relaxing, delightful aura that is exquisitely blended. Ms. Hurwitz thought of this as a summery fragrance, but also thinks it could be worn year round. I completely agree.
Notes: Lemon, Bergamot, French Lavender, Rosewood, Mandarin (top), Gradiflorum Jasmine, Bulgarian Rose, Orris root co2, Clover, Australian Sandalwood, (heart), Amber, Vanillin, Coumarin, Ambergris, East Indian Patchouli, and Civet (base).
Passport to Paris exhibit at DAM, photo Cyrus McCrimmon, The Denver Post
I asked Ms. Hurwitz what it is about artistic collaboration that seems to bring out the best in her creative spirit. She replied, “I think that when I have the opportunity to work with artistic collaborations, especially the ones with DAM since they give me carte blanche in terms of how I want to interpret the work, I am doubly inspired. I am inspired by the overall concept of an exhibit or artist or whatever the collaboration is about and then by specific works. Many times I get to set the designs down in time and place to reference perfume history/culture and juxtapose it to the present or even an imagined future. This kind of thing is highly stimulating! I think that it also feeds my deep-seated need to engage in art. Period. I need to paint. And I need to "paint" in perfume. And I need to interact with other artists work and experience it. It gives me real pleasure to be given opportunities to filter it through my own artistic lens. It may be this sense of added pleasure that makes the difference.” This collection is a testament to that collaborative inspiration and experience. Each fragrance is as distinctive and original as the artwork that inspired it. I am hard-pressed to choose a favorite, as I liked them all and enjoyed wearing them for reasons as diverse as the perfumes.
I received my samples courtesy of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes. Vers la Violette, Passport à Paris, and Amouse Bouche are available on the DSH Perfumes website in EDP and parfum.
Tama Blough, Senior Editor
Thanks to the generosity of Ms. Hurwitz, we have a reader’s choice draw for a 1.5 ml parfum extrait sample for three readers anywhere in the world. Let us know specifically which of these three scents you would choose, and why, and also let us know if you have a favorite DSH fragrance. Draw ends November 27, 2013.
We announce the winners only onsite and on our Facebook page, so Like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…..or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.