Winter went on forever. Tama quipped, "I think we can stop here". We miss flowers blooming and green leaves on trees as for most of us in the Northeast the branches are still bare. We packed away our parkas and hope springs eternal that the dreary weather is behind us.
Illustration: Hermes
In 1951 Edmond Rountistka created what I consider his greatest fragrance of all time for the house of Hermes. The concept was to create a smell that embodied the scent of the interior of a Hermes leather bag. While it does have a leathery nuance, I find it to be the true structure that Edmond Roudnitska created his fragrances around and the perfect spring wear fragrance when the nights are still cool or cold and the days are beginning to warm. Eau d'Hermes smells a bit like vintage Guerlain Jicky and Coty Chypre but with a very large spicy, cumin accord. Eau d’Hermes starts out bursting with fresh bergamot, Italian citron, bitter orange, neroli, before the spicy animalic stage with a distinct cumin, cinnamon and cardamom accord backed by a good dose of civet. As the fragrance starts to settle, a warm herbal mossy woodsy chypre note takes the stage. It may not be a pretty scent and it is definitely polarizing, but give Eau d' Hermes a try and after a few wears you will be hooked.
-Kevin Verpsoor, Contributor
Photo: Elizaveta Porodina
Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger Tubereuse Rosee from the Collection Inedits, is my favorite spring fragrance because it marks an unmistakable change from the gourmands and Orientals I have been wearing all winter long. An unabashed huge white floral that announces your entrance with trumpets, this creamy, buttery tuberose accented with rose seems pollinated with ylang ylang and spice. Base notes of vanilla, sandalwood and musk approximate the warmth of the lengthening days. Tubereuse Rosee is a modern, wearable take on tuberose that is effortlessly glamorous and undeniably feminine. Composed by Jean-Claude Gigadot 2013.
-Nancy Knows, Sr. Contributor
Photos: Tatiana Mikhina
Outstanding, unique, and completely alive, April Aromatics Liquid Dreams, is spring in a bottle. Instantly I smell and see the colors that are inside: daffodil yellow, young grassy green, and milky off-white. Top notes of juicy citrus mix with its center of narcissus that gives off a leafy green and slightly jasmonic quality, but it is the osmanthus that is the star of this fragrance with its creamy apricot quality and intoxicating, slightly off (in that good way), indolic nature. Here osmanthus has been molded in such a way that it is less dominating than most heady whites, but still has distinct character. A perfectly balanced springtime gem that is completely magical on the skin for day or night. Composed by natural perfumer Tanja Bochnig in 2012
At first, Atelier Cologne Cédrat Enivrant is deceptively simple, like the first Crocus of spring, but let’s not forget all the work that is taking place underground all winter long to create such a beauty. Similarly, Cédrat has ease about it, but it is not your ordinary cologne. It represents a new fragrance family called Cologne Absolue, and possesses a juicy brightness, as all colognes do, but has more lasting power and tenacity than most. Somehow the first days of spring make everything seem easier to accomplish; suddenly there is a fresh take on life. Wearable colognes reflect this ease, but what is so special about Cédrat is that it sticks around long enough to accompany one from the morning stride through an evening stroll, and if this isn’t enough its namesake is a popular lemon and gin French cocktail. Notes include Moroccan Cedrat, Lime, Bergamot, Chinese Mint, Egyptian Basilic, Juniper Berries, Tonka Bean, Vetiver. Composed by Ralf Schwieger 2014
-Valerie Vitale, Editor
No other perfume captures the feeling of this season more eloquently for me than Thierry Mugler’s Cologne. Woven intricately by Alberto Morillas in 2001 with very sheer essences of often powerful notes, this ultra-modern twist on eau de cologne is sublime in its simplicity without being trite or generic. Opening leafy and verdant while backlit by bergamot and softened by neroli this wafts from the skin like a shimmering mist of vitality without being overly bitter or suffocating. Its orange blossom heart merges with the gentle musky base leaving traces of naturally handcrafted well-made soap gently clinging to warm skin for hours. Merging clean and sexy while transcending gender, this is the perfumed equivalent of a quick steam and shower leaving its wearer refreshed and revitalized.
Walks out in in nature are another activity I have missed all winter. Perfumer Lisa Fong of Artemisia Natural Perfumes has bottled one of these in her 2008 release Ondine. In a divine blend of crisp narcissus, a herald of spring, with kewda bloom attar we have sharp green floral notes enmeshed with buoyant airy ones. The warming of the flowers with myrrh resin is genius and captures the return of the sun and longer more temperate days ahead. What may sound relatively simple and linear continues to unfold, capturing the cooler aspects of water without smelling overly aquatic. Ice and snow have melted and begin to flow, pooling all around fresh grass, new petals and saturating warm earth. This perfume echoes all of that 100% naturally and is a superb olfactory representation of warm days and returning flowers kissed with chilly breezes.
-John Reasinger, Senior Editor and Natural Perfume Editor
"Blossom Drop" by Tama Blough
I can't think of any single thing that smells like Spring as much as orange blossoms. Walking down a street and catching that sweet aroma in the air from a nearby tree is nearly breathtaking, and for me, no perfume captures the freshness of that experience like Le Labo Fleur D'Oranger 27 (2006, Francois Caron). There is something almost poignant about the innocence of the dewy green fragrance of this perfume. Le Labo created it with bergamot, grapefruit, and petitgrain, with touches of musk and vetiver. The fragrance took three years to compose, and it shows in its perfection. This was the first Le Labo perfume I ever smelled, and remains a favorite in the line.
We have had an interesting Spring in my neck of the woods, with more rain and cool temperatures than we had in the winter. Interspersed with those storms have been beautiful days of blue skies and fluffy clouds. Penhaligon's Night-Scented Stock is perfect for this transitional period. Stock is a flower with a wonderfully deep aroma, and this perfume captures it well. It is brightly floral, with heliotrope and violet, and a bit clean, but the underlying spiciness of clove adds verve, and vanilla and tonka bean add warmth. Wearing this on a cool, sunny day is a wonderful choice. Originally released in 1976 by perfumer M. Pickthall, it was revised in 2009 by Mike Parrot to be part of the Anthology Collection, and is a perennial favorite for both men and women.
Tama Blough, Managing Editor
Roger Vivier
When I wear strong animalic musk perfumes, anyone within 10 feet becomes so frightened that they hand me their wallet and car keys and run away. Les Nombres d'Or Musc isn't a scary beast, rather it reminds me of the Grimm fairytale of Snow White and Red Rose, the two sisters, one shy, one outgoing that make friends with a big ol' bear. The bear is a metaphor for how deftly Mona di Orio worked with musk, taming it, reigning it in, teaching it some manners. A hopeful neroli note quickly gives way to a powdery puff of almond scented heliotrope and a cheerful rose warmed by the sweetness of tonka beans. If you are like me and enjoy wearing gourmands in warmer weather, but want a fragrance that doesn't smell like a pastry, Mona's Musc is a must.
The Old Farmer's Almanac is predicting that Summer will be hotter than normal and will arrive earlier. Which gives us about two months of Spring before we start wilting. Parfums M. Micallef Ylang in Gold will be in heavy rotation well into July and is the perfect perfume for changeable weather. This is one of the prettiest fragrances I own (first sniffed this on Martine Micallef and thought "I 'll have what she's having") and I am down to the last few spritzes in the gorgeous Swarovski studded bottle. By now you should know I have a penchant for Ylang Ylang which can be a tough note to work with. Perfumers Jean-Claude Astier and Geoffrey Nedjman bring out ylang's sensual side by surrounding it with sun kissed fruits and flowers, a fantastic creamy sandalwood and yummy notes of vanilla and coconut. The perfume is infused with golden shimmering particles that after months of being bundled up, makes me want to bare more than a little skin. Kick off those UGG boots and slip into this sexy sandal of a fragrance.
-Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief
Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief
For our Favorite Spring Fragrance Draw:
WORLDWIDE: We Love Tanja Bochnig who is offering 30ml of ALL NATURAL Liquid Dreams and congratulate her on Calling All Angels making the Art and Olfaction Finalists in the Artisan Category
WORLDWIDE: With Gratitude to Geoffrey Nedjman and Martine Micallef for 100 ml of YLANG IN GOLD (a CaFleureBon 2012 Best of Scent)
WORLDWIDE: From the very kind Jerouen Oude Sogtoen for offering 100ml of Les Nombres d'Or Musc
US AND CANADA 100 ml Penhaligon's Night Scented Stock from our fabulous friends at Penhaligon's London
US AND CANADA 30ml of Atelier Cologne Cédrat Enivrant from the folks at Atelier Cologne
US ONLY 100ml of Tubereuse Rosee by Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger courtesy of Ann Onusko of Indigo Perfumery (don't forget spring promotion- 15% off any purchase of $100 through April 10, 2014 with the code Spring Green
US ONLY 10.2 oz refillable Mugler Cologne from our friends at Thierry Mugler Parfums
To be eligible for this incredible draw please leave a comment with what you love about Spring and as many of the seven best Spring Fragrances you would like to win (Country restrictions). Thank you to all the sponsors, just so you know we chose our favorites first!!! Draw closes April 10, 2014.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.