In today’s Japan Travel Q&A we answer a question about sushi in Tokyo from Jonathan in New York City:
“What are some of the best sushi restaurants in Tokyo?”
Don’t feel like watching a video? Read below for today’s answer!
Great question, Jonathan!
Tokyo is full of great sushi shops and we’re going to tell you about some of the very best. But before diving in, we want to mention that it ultimately comes down to personal taste and preference.
The sushi-ya (sushi shops) we introduce below are among Tokyo’s best, and dining at any of them will be a sublime culinary experience. But Tokyo has many other excellent sushi restaurants as well, both famous and little known.
For some extra insight into the complex and ever-changing world of Tokyo sushi, we had a conversation with our friend Rebekah Wilson-Lye.
Rebekah is a Tokyo-based writer (you can see her latest articles at her website, Ichi for the Michi), food fixer, certified Advanced Sake Professional and passionate sushi enthusiast.
In addition to compiling a list of the best sushi shops in Tokyo we also discussed the following, which you’ll find in the article below:
Edomae sushi and its origins
Common sushi misconceptions
Important (and often overlooked) sushi etiquette – essential reading if you’re going to a top sushi-ya
We hope you enjoy the article, and if you have any questions for us and Rebekah be sure to leave them in the comments below!
The Origins of Edomae Sushi
Sushi’s history stretches back about two thousand years – originating in Southeast Asia – and was at first primarily a means of preserving fish and meats, using fermented rice.
Sushi didn’t appear in Japan until about a thousand years ago, and only very gradually evolved into what we typically consider sushi today.
While sushi continues to develop (a hundred years from now it might be very different from today!), a major turning point in its evolution took place in the city of Edo (present-day Tokyo) in the early 19th century.
In the bustling city of Edo, a new style of sushi emerged, which we now call Edomae sushi.
The innovators of Edomae sushi placed pieces of fish (and other ingredients from Tokyo – or Edo – Bay) atop balls of vinegared rice, creating quite possibly the best fast food the world has ever seen. This new form of sushi, served from food carts, caught on.
Refrigeration wasn’t an option for these sushi sellers, and their innovative ways of giving their products a longer shelf life led them to come up with creative – and delicious – ways of preparing their offerings. So in addition to raw fish, many of the ingredients were simmered or cured in vinegar or soy sauce, or cooked in some way.
Nowadays sushi featuring raw fish is more popular than ever, but in traditional Edomae sushi it’s still very common for neta (the toppings, i.e., the fish or other ingredient on top of the rice) to be cooked or cured in some way.
And this leads us to our first – and perhaps the most common – misconception about sushi.
Sushi in Japan
Common Misconceptions About Sushi
Despite sushi’s extreme popularity worldwide, it is still surprisingly misunderstood. One of the main reasons for this is that sushi in Japan is usually quite different from the sushi you’ll encounter outside of Japan.
So to dispel a few myths about everything sushi, we put together some information about the most common misconceptions surrounding sushi in Japan.
Fresher Equals Better
Many sushi lovers are under the impression that the best sushi in the world is always the freshest. But this simply isn’t the case.
As Rebekah puts is, “If you’re eating the freshest sushi in the world, you’re not necessarily eating the greatest sushi in the world.”
While some ingredients – such as uni – are usually best as fresh as possible, others are best after aging or other forms of preparation.
For example, tuna – one of the most popular sushi neta (toppings) – is typically aged for 3-4 days, and in some sushi-ya up to 2 weeks.
In general, fish right out of the water doesn’t yet have a considerable amount of flavor. This is particularly true when it comes to white fish, which are extra taut and muscly, with little fat. It takes time for a fish to begin breaking down, and for amino acids to be released. One way this is done by sushi chefs is by placing a cut of fish between sheets of kombu (kelp) and allowing it to age, to bring out the fish’s umami. (For more about kombu aging and umami, we recommend this article from the Umami Information Center.)
A great sushi chef knows when a fish or ingredient will taste its best, and this can vary greatly from fish to fish, and season to season.
When dining at one of Tokyo’s traditional Edomae sushi establishments, you’re likely to have the chance to enjoy a wide variety of preparations, including neta (ingredients) that have been cured, aged, simmered or par-boiled.
Learn to Love the Rice
If you’ve ever eaten good-quality sushi in Japan, then you already know that the quality of the shari (rice) is just as important as the quality of the neta (toppings).
Sushi novices tend to place all the emphasis on the neta, and fail to appreciate what many sushi connoisseurs consider the real treat: the shari.
Chopsticks and rice
Far from a mere filler, there is a delicate art involved in preparing shari, with many different techniques. Sushi rice is comprised of meticulously-cooked white rice, mixed with red or white vinegar, sugar and salt.
Every great sushi chef pays extreme attention to each step of the process, from procurement of the finest sushi rice to its perfect preparation.
As Rebekah says, “For many people it’s all about the shari,” and sushi enthusiasts obsess over different chefs’ methods of preparing the perfect sushi rice.
She continues, “If you’re going to spend a lot of money on the tuna, it’s always going to be good. But it’s the chef nailing the seemingly simple – but mindbogglingly detailed – elements, like the rice, that make sushi so much more beautiful than the sum of its parts.”
Sushi: A Special Occasion
A surprisingly common myth about Japan is that Japanese people eat sushi every day, or at least often.
While hardcore sushi enthusiasts do eat sushi often, in general sushi is not an everyday food. One reason for this is simply that Japanese cuisine is extremely varied.
In addition, as Rebekah shares, “The main reason is that – just as for foreigners – sushi-ya are intimidating. They’re formal, traditional spaces.”
So while it is fairly common for Japanese people to grab a quick, casual sushi lunch from a convenience store or supermarket, dining at a sushi “shrine” or “temple” (as the top sushi-ya are sometimes referred to) is typically a very rare and special occasion for Japanese people, just as for non-Japanese visiting Japan.
Neighborhood sushi joints are a bit more casual, but anytime you go out for sushi it’s an experience to be cherished!
Does Michelin Matter?
With more Michelin stars than any other city in the world, you might think that Japanese people would wholeheartedly embrace the famed culinary guide.
However, the truth is that the Michelin Guide is quite controversial in Japan, and often Japanese critics and diners are at odds with what Michelin’s inspectors have opined.
So when deciding on a sushi-ya at which to splurge, make sure to look beyond the Michelin Guide if possible. While Michelin stars are certainly symbols of quality, some of Tokyo’s best sushi shops don’t have Michelin stars (yet are extremely respected in Japan).
As Rebekah notes, “You have to keep in mind that it’s a foreign standard being imposed on a cuisine that does not have the same traditions or judging criteria. Michelin’s criteria include elements like saucing, ambience and wine list as part of the overall assessment, which are not necessarily factors in determining what makes a good sushi-ya – and in some cases don’t even exist.”
So while the Michelin Guide is not a bad place for English speakers to begin, keep in mind that it’s not the end-all-be-all guide it’s sometimes made out to be.
Not all great Tokyo sushi-ya are the sleek and stylish establishments you may be imagining. Some of the best sushi shops may look or feel outdated, and aesthetically mundane – others may have no ambience at all, or even feel uncomfortable.
Chef at work (Photo Credit: Norio.NAKAYAMA via Compfight cc )
Tokyo’s Best Sushi Shops
If you’re coming to Tokyo and looking for a once-in-a-lifetime sushi experience, here are 5 of Tokyo’s best!
As Rebekah put it to us, these 5 sushi shops are perfect “if you’re coming to Japan for one visit, and want to have that ‘stick a fork in me, I’m done’ tour-de-force sushi meal.”
This is an endlessly-controversial topic among foodies in Japan and around the world, and the good news for you is that Tokyo has far too many excellent sushi shops to even attempt listing.
If you’ve seen the documentary, “Jiro Dreams of Sushi,” you may be surprised to see that Ono-san’s (Jiro’s) restaurant, Sukiyabashi Jiro, isn’t included in our list.
While Ono-san is a living legend in the world of sushi, it’s widely agreed upon by sushi connoisseurs today that there are better places in Tokyo to enjoy a once-in-a-lifetime sushi meal.
Even though Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe saw fit to treat US President Barack Obama to lunch here, it’s important to note that – despite its 3 Michelin stars and popularity in the western media – among Japanese diners, Jiro’s shop does not usually rank near the top in rankings of Tokyo’s best sushi restaurants.
Perhaps more importantly, a major drawback to eating at Jiro is that the entire experience is over before you can even settle in! Meals at Jiro usually last around a half hour.
In stark contrast, at the sushi shops featured below you generally have the luxury of enjoying your top-end sushi experience over the course of a couple of hours.
So without further ado, we present 5 of the top sushi shops in Tokyo (listed in no special order):
Photo courtesy of: Rebekah Wilson-Lye
Sushi Yoshitake
Sushi Yoshitake is a beautifully-appointed sushi-ya in Tokyo’s upscale Ginza district. In many ways Yoshitake offers the complete experience: a masterful chef, impeccable ingredients, elegant ambience, a great sake list – and Chef Yoshitake even speaks some English.
Rebekah says, “Consistently flawless, brilliant at combining flavors and textures. For me, it is just a ‘hallelujah’ moment dining here. So for me it’s at the top of the list.”
The approximately 2-hour omakase set menu course costs around 23,000 yen (about US $230) plus tax. Reservations at this tiny 7-seater are a must!
Address:
Sushi Yoshitake
Suzuryu Building 3F
8-7-19 Ginza
Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104-0061
Tel: 03-6253-7331 (+81-3-6253-7331)
Japanese: 鮨よしたけ
〒104-0061 東京都中央区銀座8-7-19 すずりゅうビル3F
Sawada
Sawada is another beautiful Ginza sushi-ya that will blow you away. Chef Sawada has become famous for many reasons, but one in particular is how he ages his tuna. Chef Sawada is friendly and has some limited English skills.
Rebekah says, “You may get a restraining order from your bank manager after a meal here, but if neta is what you’re interested in, Sawada is the place to go. He is a master in terms of his marriage of flavors and aging techniques. Definitely the option for the ‘meal of your life’ experience.”
The approximately 2.5-hour omakase set menu course costs around 35,000 yen (about US $350) plus tax. Reservations at this tiny 6-8 seater are a must, and photos are not allowed (for more on this topic, see our etiquette section below).
Address:
MC Building 3F
5-9-19 Ginza
Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104-0061
Tel: 03-3571-4711 (+81-3-3571-4711)
Japanese: さわ田
〒104-0061 東京都中央区銀座5-9-19 MCビル 3F
Sushi Sho
Sushi Sho (also written in English as Sushisho and Sushi-sho) offers a more laid-back – and even lively – top-notch sushi experience. Chef Nakazawa is famous for his 35-dish omakase set menu course.
The course here is also unique in that he intersperses his nigiri (pieces of sushi) with tsumami (appetizers). This encourages the drinking of sake with your meal, because if you have too much rice in your system from eating nigiri, you’ll want to stop drinking!
Rebekah says, “You go on this roller coaster ride of flavors and textures. It’s quite delightful, and playful as well. He’s another sushi chef who does aging very, very well. Also, he’s got a fantastic sake list.”
The omakase set menu course costs around 20,000 yen (about US $200) plus tax. Be sure to make reservations well in advance, as this 10-seat sushi-ya has a strong following.
Address:
Sushi Sho
Yorindo Building 1F
1-11 Yotsuya
Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0004
Tel: 03-3351-6387 (+81-3-3351-6387)
Japanese: すし匠
〒160-0004 東京都新宿区四谷1-11 陽臨堂ビル1F
Harutaka
Harutaka (also known as Ginza Harutaka) is the much-loved sushi shop run by one of Ono-san’s (Jiro’s) most famous disciples. If you want to enjoy a taste of Jiro, but in a much more relaxed and convivial atmosphere, dine at Harutaka.
Rebekah says, “He was a disciple of Jiro-san’s for many years and I think he’s the best of the former apprentices. You get the flavor of Jiro but with a much more pleasurable dining experience.”
As anyone who has seen Jiro Dreams of Sushi knows, Ono-san’s apprentices learn the ins and outs of every aspect of making sushi from the bottom up. As Rebekah put it, “These guys were washing the octopus, doing all the prep for him, and they were taught his sequencing and his sauces.”
Chef Harutaka offers a nigiri course similar to what you might get at Jiro, albeit at a much more “human” pace. In addition, his course here includes a short tsumami (appetizers) course, which you won’t get at Jiro’s shop.
This is classic Edomae sushi, and is a favorite with other chefs as Harutaka is open late. The sake menu here is also very good.
The 20-piece omakase set menu course costs around 23,000 yen (about US $230) plus tax. Reservations, of course, are strongly recommended!
Address:
Harutaka
Ginza Kawabata Bldg. 3F
8-5-8 Ginza
Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104-0061
Tel: 03-3573-1144 (+81-3-3573-1144)
Japanese: 青空
〒104-0061 東京都中央区銀座8-5-8 銀座かわばたビル ３F
Photo courtesy of: Rebekah Wilson-Lye
Sushi Iwa
Sushi Iwa is a fantastic option if you’re looking for a top-quality sushi experience, but want to spend a little less than the above options. The “steal” here is at lunch, when you can choose between a 10-piece or 13-piece nigiri set.
Rebekah says, “His nigiri is excellent. He’s a great host and it’s wonderful to watch him prep before you. The harmony between the fish and the red vinegar that he uses is wonderful.”
The omakase set menu course for dinner here ranges from about US $185 to $260, but the real bargain here is at lunch. You can select between a 10-piece nigiri course for about 4,750 yen (about US $47) or a 13-piece set for about 8,400 yen (about US $84). It’s worth splurging on the 13-piece set.
As always, reservations are strongly advised!
Address:
Sushi Iwa
8-5-25 Ginza
Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104-0061
Tel: 03-3572-0955 (+81-3-3572-0955)
Japanese: 鮨 いわ
〒104-0061 東京都中央区銀座8-5-25 第2三有ビル 1F
Tamago (Photo Credit: Norio.NAKAYAMA via Compfight cc )
The Sushi Etiquette Checklist
Japanese etiquette can seem complicated enough, but the etiquette that comes with dining at a high-end sushi shop is something else altogether.
As Rebekah points out above, sushi-ya are formal, traditional spaces, and they can be pretty intimidating – even to Japanese people!
So when planning your visit to a top Tokyo sushi shop, it’s a good idea to learn some basic sushi etiquette to help avoid any potentially awkward or disappointing moments.
While much of this is common sense, some of these guidelines may come as a surprise to you, even if you’re a frequent sushi diner.
So if you want to enter your sushi chef’s – and fellow diners’ – good graces, we highly recommend familiarizing yourself with these must-read tips!
As always with Japanese etiquette, the overriding rule is to simply act as respectfully as possible. Keep this golden rule in mind and chances are you’ll be just fine.
Photos: The Controversy
While some sushi shops permit photography, others don’t. The first thing you’ll want to do is ask if taking photos is acceptable (this doesn’t only apply to sushi-ya, but also other restaurants in Japan as well).
Even if the chef says taking photographs is acceptable, the last thing you want to do is take attention away from the sublime culinary experience by expending all your energy setting up and snapping photographs.
Not only will this ultimately detract from your own experience, it may also have the adverse affect of disrupting your fellow diners’ experiences. Remember, most sushi-ya are very small and intimate spaces.
As Rebekah puts it, “There’s nothing worse than people pulling out their big camera equipment and turning [the sushi-ya] into a photo shoot. It’s embarrassing, it’s annoying, and it interrupts the meal and the chef.”
If you are given permission to take photos, we highly recommend being selective, rather than just taking pictures of everything.
Also, if taking photos is very important to you, a great thing to do is to decide beforehand that just one person from your party will take the photos, instead of all of you whipping out your cameras and snapping away.
You’ll want to be as discreet as possible, so it’s best to turn off your flash – and if you can live with it, the best thing to do is to use a small camera (like your smartphone’s) rather than lugging in a huge camera.
Photo Credit: See-ming Lee 李思明 SML via Compfight cc
Special Dietary Requests
Part of what makes dining at a top sushi shop so special is the chef’s attention to detail. The chef carefully plans out every ingredient in advance, not only to ensure you get the absolute best quality, but also to make sure he or she has the proper amount of each ingredient for each day’s service.
What this means is that if you have any special dietary requests, you need to inform the sushi shop at the time of making reservations – not on the day of your meal. This rule applies not only to high-end sushi-ya, but also to other high-end restaurants and even ryokans.
Since most top sushi shops require reservations well in advance, when making reservations it’s your responsibility to inform the restaurant of any dietary needs or preferences you may have. They will most likely do their best to cater to any essential needs you might have, though of course not every single preference can be catered to.
Sushi shops carefully prepare for each meal, so if you spring a surprise on them (for example, telling them on the day of your meal that you can’t eat so-and-so), you’ll be committing a fairly major faux pas. It’s less that they will be upset, more that they will be frustrated that you didn’t tell them in advance so they could properly prepare.
Rebekah advises, “Tell the shop what you will be ordering, because they need to order appropriately from the markets.”
Here’s an example that, unfortunately, happens all the time. A customer will have ordered the omakase (chef’s special menu) at the time of reservation, but – upon arrival – tell the staff, “I’m not really that hungry. I’ll pay the full omakase price, but I just want to have all tuna instead”.
This may not seem like a huge request, but considering that everything is so carefully pre-planned – the chef has specifically prepared and aged the proper amount of fish to be served for each customer on that day – it could end up causing a bit of havoc.
As Rebekah puts it, “It’s seen not only disrespectful, but it’s also seen as greedy and gluttonous. So don’t disrespect the chef, eat the omakase as the omakase course.”
And if you do have any special requests, don’t be shy and state them at the time of making reservations!
Cash & Credit Cards
Not so much an etiquette issue, but still a common mishap: many top sushi-ya do not accept credit cards.
Credit cards are not widely accepted in Japan, so when making reservations make sure to find out if they accept credit cards or not.
A ¥10,000 bill
Reservations & Cancellations
The best sushi shops are usually extremely small and have limited seatings per night. Because of this most sushi-ya charge a 100% cancellation fee if you cancel at the last minute.
When making reservations, you will be informed of the shop’s cancellation policy.
Don’t be put off if a sushi-ya doesn’t take your reservation simply because you’re not actually physically in Japan. Many sushi shops don’t take reservations from non-Japanese based outside of Japan, since they’d have no way of ensuring that you show up (or of charging you the cancellation fee in case you don’t show up).
As Rebekah puts it, “Be aware that if you want to cancel, or if you double book somewhere in the hopes of getting in somewhere else, you’re going to have to pay for the meal – and fair enough, too!”
If you’re traveling as one of our clients, you don’t need to worry too much about this (except for the cancellation penalty!), since we’ll happily secure you dinner reservations at the sushi-ya of your choice – subject to availability, of course.
Otherwise, we highly recommend asking your hotel or ryokan to help you make the bookings. In many cases, reservations at top sushi shops need to be made a month or two in advance, or more.
Perfume & Cologne
A common etiquette taboo – about which few people are conscious – is wearing fragrances to a sushi shop.
Fragrances can ruin the experience of other diners by interfering with their interaction with each dish. By fragrances we mean:
Perfume
Cologne
Lotions
Hair products
And other fragrances
As Rebekah puts it, “If you go in with a floral perfume, it’s going to destroy everyone else’s ability to perceive the subtle fragrances in the fish. You will actually be asked to leave some shops if you wear perfume.”
Don’t Name Names
While eating an incredible sushi meal, it may occur to you to talk about it in relation to past sushi experiences you’ve had.
Whether you’re name-dropping, or harmlessly discussing with your dining companions, mentioning other sushi shop’ and chefs’ names is generally considered a taboo.
Casual sushi shop (Photo Credit: bryangeek via Compfight cc )
Rebekah says, “Never mention another sushi shop’s name at a counter. Stay focused on what he’s doing, and not so much about name-dropping other sushi chefs. It’s one of sushi chefs’ pet peeves.”
Even if the sushi chef doesn’t understand English, chances are the name of the chef or shop will come across, and then your current chef can only imagine what kinds of comparisons you are drawing!
Asking Questions
There’s absolutely nothing wrong with asking the chef questions – after all, it’s part of the dining experience.
However, there is a line between asking a few questions, and asking endless or obnoxious questions.
Keep in mind that the chef has to pay attention to all of the diners, so we highly recommend being considerate both to the chef and to your fellow diners.
Unrealistic Demands
If you type “Tokyo sushi” into Google, no doubt you’ll come upon dozens of food blogs describing their experiences at Tokyo’s top sushi shops, photos and all.
This etiquette tip may seem like common sense, but just because you saw a particular dish on someone’s blog doesn’t mean that the same dish will be part of your omakase course!
Kaiseki cuisine at Ryokan Kurashiki
Occasionally diners will show a chef a photo on their smartphone (taken from a food blog), and request the same dish. Not only is this considered rude, it’s also an unrealistic demand.
As Rebekah puts it, “It’s not a coffee shop where you can just say, ‘I want it this way.’ The chef has designed the course for the season, and the best way for that fish.”
Every course menu is carefully thought out and planned in advance, so chances are good that the dish is simply not available on the day you visit. There are so many factors at play: the photo of the dish of your dreams may have been taken during a different season, or the fish may be a different breed or from different waters – the potential reasons are endless.
Also, many of the sauces, glazes and gelees have been expertly prepared in advance, so requesting that the chef stop what he’s doing to whip up something completely different just for you is not only impolite but many times impossible.
Read The Air
The concept of “reading the air” is a huge part of how to get by in Japan, and this applies to dining at sushi-ya as well.
Simply put, it means being keenly aware of your surroundings (and acting in a way that will be harmonious with what’s going on around you).
Dining at one of Tokyo’s “sushi shrines” may be a once-in-a-lifetime experience for you, but it probably is for the other customers – Japanese or other foreigners – too!
And since these establishments tend to be very compact, you’ll want to be respectful of your fellow diners by keeping your voice down a bit while still enjoying yourselves, so as not to encroach on others experience.
Tokyo skyline with Tokyo Skytree
For most people traveling to Tokyo and having a once-in-a-lifetime sushi-ya experience is a ‘must-do’ and at the top of their list – and we couldn’t agree more! Just remember, to look beyond the Michelin Guide, keep in mind these few sushi etiquette tips and most importantly, have a great time!
We’d like to give a special thanks to our friend Rebekah Wilson-Lye for her insights into Tokyo’s sushi world. You can connect with Rebekah at her website, Ichi For The Michi, and on Twitter (@IchifortheMichi).
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