Mother and daughter journey into the heart of Oaxaca Mexico
By Moralea Milne
Life doesn’t get much more heartwarming than when my oldest child suggested a mother and daughter adventure to explore the heart of Oaxaca, Mexico. From the excitement of visiting exotic locales, the comfort of a beautiful hotel, to the fearless experiments with indigenous cuisine (grasshoppers and crushed worms!) and the bond of shopping for exquisite handcrafts at various mercados and tianguis (markets) we shared a magical five days and nights.
First off, when traveling to a new city, if you can’t have a loved one meet you at the airport with open arms, then a handsome guide holding a sign with your name on it is an excellent alternate scenario. Alejandro would be our interpreter and fountain of knowledge for the next five days, and with over thirty years experience in the business, there was never a question he couldn’t answer.
Hotel Mision de los Angeles, a sprawling hotel complex, complete with pool, tennis courts, acres of green space and a huge breakfast buffet would be our comfortable home for the duration. We only discovered near the end of our stay that it is a pleasant hike into the Centro Historico, passing shaded parks and along streets filled with art galleries, boutiques, restaurants and specialty shops. Much of the charm of Ciudad de Oaxaca stems from their determination to respect the heritage of their architecture, and the facades of the one and two story buildings remain true to their original designs, creating an ambiance that combines a sense of authenticity with an obvious fierce pride in the local culture.
Mexico is a country saturated with ancient history, with settlements stretching back at least 10,000 years. New archaeological sites are still being discovered, while many known ones have been only partially explored. The magnificent ancient Zapotec site of Monte Alban has been created and recreated during at least three different regimes, each of the new inhabitants adding to the scale and grandeur. Monte Alban is known for creating the first lunar calendar and a solar calendar was used by 550 BC. For those who prefer their archaeological adventures to be less than an endurance feat, Monte Alban and Mitla fill the bill.
Monte Alban is a stone’s throw west from Oaxaca with trails that are easily accessible by almost any fitness level. Settled in the fertile confluence of three valleys, it was mainly a centre of governance, inhabited mostly by nobles and the military. It is estimated that 35,000 people were situated within the twenty-two sq km around the site. There is a fine museum that showcases a few of the artifacts that were found with the opening of Tomb Seven. Discovered in 1931 by the celebrated Mexican archaeologist Alfonso Casa, it was considered even more significant than the treasures found at King Tutankhamun’s tomb in Eygpt. Dr Geoffery McCafferty, of the University of Calgary, believes that the tomb was dedicated to a female Goddess, probably with power over earth and fertility issues. Straying from the prescribed tour, I’m sure there were a few amused glances shared among the Mexican visitors to the site, when I discovered a wall covered in moths, no doubt trapped by a light left on during the night. To me, as a naturalist, their intricately and brightly patterned wings rivalled any of the ornamentation on display in the cases in the museum!
Mitla, meaning Place of the Dead, is situated less than an hour’s drive east of the city. Established as a religious centre, it is renowned for the geometric patterns that decorate the buildings. While at Mitla, we were able to visit the nearby market, with some of the best prices we found anywhere. A lovely traditional cotton shawl, handy for the cool mountain evenings, was half the cost of anywhere else.
No tour of Oaxaca, indeed of anywhere in Mexico, is complete without visiting a few renovated churches, nunneries and monasteries. In part, to show their allegiance to the Catholic Church, and also to protect themselves from the fearsome eye of the Spanish Inquisition, enormous, intricately detailed, gold embossed religious buildings were constructed. Often only the nobility were permitted inside these grand edifices, with the general public receiving mass in an attached courtyard. The Mexican government and the Catholic Church have had a tumultuous relationship over the centuries and for a period in the 1930’s, many churches were closed and priests deported. Some of the buildings were abandoned, alters removed and maintenance suspended until the structures had more in common with the ruins they superseded rather than the powerful institution they had been previously. Lately there has been a movement towards renovation of these structures, with money coming from the local communities, the states and the federal government.
As someone whose heart responds to the natural world, rather than the constructed one, my favourite part of the tour was an all too brief stop at a wildflower meadow near Teposcolula where we encountered a profusion of stunning native wildflowers with jewel-like butterflies nectaring amid the ancient pine and oak forests. Even our guide, tasking with keeping us to a hectic schedule, was glad of the respite, confessing that this unscheduled stop was the preferred part of his day as well.
On December 2010, UNESCO declared Traditional Mexican Cuisine as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. We were able to explore the truth of this designation by sampling many of the nuances of Oaxacan cuisine. Moles are a complex mixture of ingredients that are famous in the region, used to complement many savoury dishes. The cool evenings are a perfect excuse to wrap yourself in one of the elegant hand-woven, woollen shawls and sip on the delicious Oaxacan version of hot chocolate, flavoured with cinnamon, almonds and sugar. You will want to return again and again to recreate that delicious experience.
For those who appreciate a more substantial liquid to imbibe, Mezcal is the beverage that defines the local bar scene. Once a poor man’s road to oblivion, Mezcal is enjoying the attentions of the artisan movement. With over thirty species of agave to work with and the revival of traditional methods of extraction that impart the signature smokey flavour, Mezcal aficionados are as knowledgeable about their passion as any wine connoisseur. Be forewarned, Mexcal does impart a substantial kick!
Many of the neighbouring villages have specialised in the production of a specific traditional handicraft or artisan product. We visited the town of San Martin Tilcajete, fortuitously timed to attend their annual market of alebrijes (brightly coloured, fantastical, carved creatures). Creativity knows no bounds when it comes to the imaginative creations you can find here. In San Bartolo Coyotepec we were able to visit the famous Dona Rosa factory, where their renowned black pottery is produced. Using local clays, a specific firing and finishing procedure, and the carving of intricate designs, they have produced an amazing variety of decorative objects at embarrassingly low cost to the shopping traveler. Teotitlan del Valle is celebrated for their weaving, particularly of complexly patterned wool rugs, many suitable as art pieces.
If it is within your ability, any visit to Oaxaca state should include a journey to the Oaxacan coast. The road over the mountains provides spectacular vistas through intact jungles. Stay a night in San Jose del Pacifico, perched on a mountain ridge and delight in the early morning sunrise, a panoramic view of lush, seemingly untouched forests clinging to steep mountain terrain.
After the countless hairpin turns, you will want to spend a few days resting in Huatulco, an integrally planned tourist destination, certified as a Sustainable Tourism Community, dedicated to maintaining high standards of sustainable practices and environmental protection. Of the 20,000 hectares set aside for the development of Huatulco, 16,000 ha have been protected as the Huatulco National Park, where the vast biodiversity of the area, that includes 413 species of plants, 130 species and subspecies of mammals, 291 species of birds, 72 species of reptiles and 15 species of amphibians has been preserved. There are a number of ecotourism companies that can help you explore this vital area, I met Leah, a charming young woman, English speaking, who works with her mother to provide ecotourism options: aventuramundo.net
I was able to visit three very different accommodations that showcase the diversity of choices available. Ocean Park Condominiums, a cozy establishment in the village of La Crucecita, offers well appointed and comfortable condos for sale or rent. Here you can enjoy the proximity of the local scene, restaurants, the zocalo (town square) and beach right at your doorstep. Celeste is an upscale development with a private beach and poolside restaurant for those who want the pleasure of cocooning, “far from the madding crowd”. Villas Fasol, an architectural beauty, offers an inclusive breakfast, two pools and a private beach from which to watch the action of the waves and surf.
No trip to the Oaxacan coast would be complete without a visit to Puerto Escondido, home of Zicatela Beach, one of the best surfing breaks in the world. Young people are in a majority here, as they move from big wave to even bigger waves, giving a youthful vibe to the town. Make no mistake though, there are many of the “young at heart” who also treasure the laid back ambiance of this beach town. At Hotel Casa Dan (hotelcasadan@gmail.com) it is almost impossible to get a booking, due to its popularity and the many clients who return like clockwork every winter for decades. Still, there are always cancellations and it is worth your while to see if they can accommodate you. From Puerto you can easily access many small, intimate beaches and communities that retain the feel of an earlier Mexico. One that I discovered recently is the small town of St Gabriel de Mixtepec, about an hour north of Puerto Escondido. I stayed at Rancho el Sagrado (ranchoelsagrado.com) a rustic group of cabins set in the mountains on old family coffee plantation, run by young members of the family, striving to make an ecotourism resort. It’s bare bones, affordable, clean, and best of all, teeming with wildlife, a bird and butterfly bonanza!
Wherever you find yourself in the great state of Oaxaca, you will experience the charm and authenticity of a people who are proud of their traditions and culture, yet who can embrace the modern world. There is an experience and destination to satisfy every criteria, from the vagabond to the most discerning traveler.
You want to read more articles like this one?
CLICK HERE TO SUBSCRIBE!
The post Mother and daughter journey into the heart of Oaxaca Mexico appeared first on Mexi-Go! Connecting Mexico to Canada with information on travel, retirement and real estate.