Last fall, W.W. Norton released Charles King’s intrigue-laden Midnight at the Pera Palace: the Birth of Modern Istanbul. It was a riveting tale of a city finding its way forward from the dying light of the old Ottoman Empire, as viewed through the prism of its most legendary hotel.
The Pera Palace, now part of the glitzy international Jumeirah group, still hums with all the glamour and cultural buzz as when Hemingway and Agatha Christie called it a sometime home. The hotel was, indeed, built in 1892 to house the parade of fashionable guests arriving on the last stop of the fabulously luxe new Orient Express train (yes, it did inspire that infamous murder novel). And the views of the Bosphorus will change your life.
Istanbul, of course, is still a city of dichotomies, both geographically and ideologically. It swings with culture and modernity, while also possessed of the frisson of so many mystifications and enigmas – all of which are sublimely embodied by the Pera, as we discovered on our recent stay.
Here, the hotel’s exceedingly lovely and very well-connected GM Pinar Kartal Timer gives us her top recommends for what is undoubtedly one of our favorite cities.
360 ISTANBUL
An artful combination of cuisine, vibe and entertainment. Creative food and beverage menu with the highest standards of quality and great views over the old city and Golden Horn.
MEZE
Small restaurant across from Pera Palace, which features a wide range of highly unusual Aegean herbs that you’re unlikely to find elsewhere in Istanbul. These foraged delicacies are served traditionally with olive oil as cold mezes.
KANDILLI BALıKÇı SUNA’NıN YERI
Located along the shores of the Bosphorus, on the Asian side, in an intimate outdoor setting. You can cross the river from Bebek boat station in 15 minutes. Offers mainly seafood meze and fish, and has stunning views of the sea and the European side. Have a late lunch and stay until sunset over a Turkish coffee.
TEA TIME AT THE PERA PALACE KUBBELI LOUNGE
High Tea at Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah is still the talk of the town, constantly buzzing with Istanbul elites. Every day from 15:00 to 18:00pm, accompanied by the tunes of our pianist, guests are served the most exquisite teas and delicacies on 120-year-old silver tea sets and the Italian porcelain of Richard Ginori.
NARDIS JAZZ CLUB
Features live jazz of all interpretations, including classic, modern, fusion, mainstream and ethnic, as well as solo artists performing. It’s located in the hip Beyoğlu.
GASPAR
Two-floored venue, set inside a beautiful renovated neoclassical building, has plenty of room to dance. Windows are always open in the upstairs lounge area for those who want to spy on the crowd that has spilled into the street. Both French and international menus are available for lunch and dinner. Located in Karaköy.
BNG DESIGN BOUTIQUE
Brings together its futuristic fashion line with history in a transformed 18th century building in Hasköy, an artistic district of İstanbul. Known for exclusive materials and “technological” cloth, the leather-knitwear combinations are in the forefront,
along with cotton shirts, chiffon tunics, wool-silk blend coats and a special collection of accessories.
PERA MUSEUM
A private and distinguished museum founded by the Suna and İnan Kıraç Foundation. The aim is to offer an outstanding range of diverse high quality culture and art, with exhibitions, events and films. Check out the permanent Turkish Orientalist exhibition, as well as Cecil Beaton Portraits, which runs from May 13 to July 26.
ISTANBUL MODERN
Occupies an 8,000 square meters site on the shores of the Bosphorus. Embraces a global vision to collect, preserve, exhibit and document works of modern and contemporary art and hosts a broad array of interdisciplinary activities. Apart from the permanent and temporary exhibition galleries, the photography gallery, and spaces for educational and social programs, the museum offers a cinema, design shop and an extensive library.
THE ISTANBUL JAZZ FESTIVAL
Over 35 concerts featuring more than 250 musicians, both Turkish and international, including some of the most authentic voices in folk, blues, and jazz, such as Joan Baez, Marcus Miller, Melody Gardot, and Tigran Hamasyan. This year, the festival will take “Jazz at Parks” to the Fenerbahçe Park and along with the “Night Out” in Kadıköy, will be extending to the Asian side. (June 27 – July 15)
ISTANBUL INTERNATIONAL ARTS & CULTURE FESTIVAL
Since its launch in 2010, has been gathering leading cultural figures from around the globe, including writers, directors, actors, filmmakers, musicians, artists and designers. The admission-free festival, this year in collaboration with W Magazine, offers the unique opportunity to attend open panels and talks, screenings, workshops, and exhibitions while experiencing unique artistic collaborations and performances based on past, current and future topics in arts and culture. (June 13 – 15)
TURKISH AIRLINES
One of the more glamorous airlines operating between the continents (they’ve got a dedicated onboard chef), Turkish Air now has daily direct flights from New York’s JFK to Istanbul.
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