Image courtesy of LVMH
It’s an exciting time to be a new designer.
The second round of the LVMH Prize received almost 1000 applicants. Now, 26 designers have been shortlisted. Regardless of who wins, or even who makes it to the next round of eight, all 26 are ones to look out for. Here’s what you need to know about the competition, and all its contestants:
Of the diverse range of applicants, Director and executive Vice President of Louis Vuitton, Delphine Arnault, said:
“The selection reflects the strong trends of today’s fashion. Men’s ready-to-wear confirms its creativity, the influence of street wear is bigger than ever, and womenswear is strong. Designers come from all over the world: U.S.A., China, U.K., Belgium, Italy, Japan, Denmark, Ukraine and more. It is the responsibility of the LVMH Group, as the leader of its industry, to identify and support young designers and I am delighted that we can do so with so many talented candidates.”
Of the 26 shortlisted, 6 design menswear, 15 design womenswear, 5 design both, and 3 are second time finalists: Jacquemus, Craig Green, and Marcques’Almeida.
What’s Next:
On March 4th, the 26 designers will meet the 45 international experts from the fashion world Paris, and the group will be narrowed down to 8 finalists. The final 8 are then presented to the Jury at the end of May.
Who’s Deciding?
The Jury is composed of the nine artistic directors from the LVMH Maisons: Jonathan Anderson (Loewe), Nicolas Ghesquière (Louis Vuitton), Marc Jacobs (Marc Jacobs), Karl Lagerfeld (Fendi), Humberto Leon and Carol Lim (Kenzo), Phoebe Philo (Céline), Raf Simons (Dior), Riccardo Tisci (Givenchy); as well as: Delphine Arnault, Jean-Paul Claverie (advisor to Bernard Arnault and director of LVMH sponsorship), Pierre-Yves Roussel (chairman and chief executive officer of the LVMH fashion division).
So who’s on the shortlist? + fun facts about each:
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Agi and Sam, by Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton (British designers based in London). Menswear presented in London.
These two sent models down the runway with their faces entirely obscured by masks of legos.
Agi and Sam AW15. Makeup by @isamayaffrench. Photo by Essential Homme.
A photo posted by Agi & Sam (@agiandsam) on
Jan 16, 2015 at 6:59am PST
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Andrea Jiapei Li, by Andrea Jiaipei Li (Chinese designer, based in New York). Womenswear presented in New York City.
Andrea is winning the game. Less than a year out of Parsons her collection was picked up by Dover Street Market, and can currently be seen on Agyness Deyn in LOVE mag.
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Anton Belinskiy, by Anton Belinskiy (Ukrainian designer based in Kiev). Womenswear presented in Kiev.
Style.com cites Belinskiy as a force putting Ukrainian fashion on the map.
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Arthur Arbesser, by Arthur Arbesser (Austrian designer based in Milan) Womenswear presented in Milan.
After graduating from London’s Central Saint Martins in 2005, Arbesser spent seven years refining his architectural technique at Giorgio Armani before founding his own collection last year.
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Astrid Andersen, by Astrid Andersen (Danish designer based in Copenhagen). Menswear presented in London.
Andersen’s determination to “fuse the worlds of luxury and sports,” is definitely an of-the-moment aspiration.
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Baja East, by Scott Studenberg and John Targon (American designers, based in New York). “ambisexual” fashion presented in New York.
Adding to the cool factor of this week’s Baja East show was the jewelry done in collaboration with Jennifer Fisher.
Thank you @harpersbazaarus
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Coperni, by Sebastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant (French designers based in Paris). Womenswear presented in Paris.
Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer work on Coperni Femme together, but by day, Vaillant continues in his role creating embroideries at Balenciaga.
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Craig Green, by Craig Green (British designer based in London). Menswear presented in London.
Green’s debut show left the audience in tears, as it was seen by many as a strikingly beautiful tribute to his mentor, the great Louise Wilson.
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Devon Halfnight LeFlufy, by Devon Halfnight LeFlufy (Canadian designer based in Antwerp). Menswear presented in New York.
The collection was ordered by Opening Ceremony before LeFlufy even graduated.
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Faustine Steinmetz, by Faustine Steinmetz (French designer based in London). Womenswear presented in London.
It all started for Steinmetz–the thought of becoming a designer–by cutting up denim. The quintessential fabric remains a mainstay of her work.
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Huishan Zhang, by Huishan Zhang (Chinese designer based in London). Womenswear presented in London.
Another student of Louise Wilson, Zhang has high-fashion fans including Caroline Issa.
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Jacquemus, by Simon Porte Jacquemus (French designer based in Paris). Womenswear presented in Paris.
Simon moved to Paris 18, right after high school, and enrolled in a fashion school. But, one month in, his mother died. “It was — is — the shock of my life,” he said, “I said to myself, Simon, don’t waste any time. I became obsessed with time: “Do everything you can today. I was obsessed, obsessed. I decided to launch in 2009, and named the label Jacquemus, after my mother.”
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Jourden, by Anais Mak and Benny Woo (Designers from Hong-Kong based in Hong-Kong). Womenswear presented in Paris and London.
Designer Anais Mak already dresses many of Paris’s fashion insiders, including her Liger boutique co-founder Dorothy Hui, who bought Mak’s all-leather capsule collection while she was still in design school.
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Koché, by Christelle Kocher (French designer based in Paris). Womenswear presented in Paris.
Christelle Kocher’s résumé prior to striking out on her own included time at Chloé, Sonia Rykiel, and Dries Van Noten–to name a few.
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Marques’Almeida, by Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida (Portuguese designers based in London). Womenswear presented in London.
The label is known for, and recognized by its frayed denim pieces–dresses, jackets, backless tops, and more.
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Nabil Nayal by Nabil El-Nayal (British designer based in London). Womenswear presented in London.
Harrods purchased Nabil’s MA collection, “She Smokes” for their Harrods Launches platform.
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Nasir Mazhar by Nasir Mazhar (British designer based in London). Menswear and Womenswear presented in London.
Mazhar started out designing dramatic, sculptural hats, of which Lady Gaga wore a few.
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Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh, by Virgil Abloh (American designer based in Milan). Menswear and Womenswear presented in Paris.
Abloh opened a flagship shop in Hong Kong and has also been called Kanye West’s right-hand man.
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Orley, by Alex Orley, Matthew Orley and Samantha Orley (American designers based in New York). Menswear and Womenswear presented in New York.
Orley is a total family affair: Alex and Matthew are brothers, Matthew and Samantha are married.
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Ryan Lo by Ryan Lo (British designer based in London). Womenswear presented in London.
Lo taught himself to knit in the most new-school way possible: by watching tutorials on YouTube.
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Ryan Roche by Ryan Roche (American designer based in New York). Womenswear presented in New York.
It took Maggie Gyllenhaal for current fashion darling, Ryan Roche to make the move from childrenswear to womens: “I actually did [Maggie's] daughter’s dress for her wedding … and then Maggie started saying, Can I get the cashmere cape in my size?” she told The Cut.
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Sankuanz by Zhe Shangguan (Chinese designer based in Xiamen). Menswear presented in London.
The designer recently courted controversy at his 2015 show when he sent male models down the runway with makeup intended to imitate bloody lips and black eyes.
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Vetements, by Demna Gvasali (German designer based in Paris). Womenswear presented in Paris.
At first, this young Paris-based label stayed anonymous and preferred to communicate as a collective–now, however, we that know Demna Gvasalia, an alum of Margiela and Louis Vuitton, is the leader behind the secretive design gang known for churning out perfectly awry collections.
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WrittenAfterwards by Yoshikazu Yamagata (Japanese designer based in Tokyo). Unisex fashion presented in Tokyo.
The young designer is on Nicola Formichetti’s list of must-see Tokyo designers.
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Xiao Li by Xiao Li (Chinese designer based in London). Womenswear presented in London.
Xiao Li hand-dyed all the materials for her Royal College Art fashion show to get the marshmallow-color feel she wanted.
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Ximon Lee by Ximon Lee (Chinese designer based in New York). Menswear presented in New York.
The 24 year old Lee was the first menswear designer to win the H&M Design Award. The judging panel included Tommy Ton, British Vogue’s Lucinda Chambers, and singer Lily Allen.
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The post Fashion Trivia: 26 Facts to Know About the 26 LVMH Prize Shortlisted Designers appeared first on BlackBook.