Working in the Nigerian city of Port Harcourt has its own challenges, none more so for South African ex-pat Chris Duncan. He has been in the country for just over one year, and as much as the weak rand is a great motivator, he does need to get away every now and again. Duncan goes on another road trip and returns home to the Western Cape in South Africa. The photos and memories are what he says will keep him going until his next visit – there’s no place like home. – Stuart Lowman
By Chris Duncan
With the welcome change to the jet engine whine we begin our descent into Port Harcourt from the bright sunshine, through the moisture laden grey clouds and then glimpses of luminous green and the swamp below as the Captain slams the aircraft onto the runway and it screeches and rattles braking to a halt and then with a quick taxi to the apron I know I am back. Flying – Nigerian style.
It has been almost 27 hours since I left home and then with the usual demolition derby I arrived at the hotel with an aching back after endless hours of during the economy torture seats.
The road trip back to the hotel made me realise what a beautiful and reasonably well cared for city Cape Town is in contrast to the chaos and filth here.
I am back, time to get used to it again.
The past three weeks of leave flew by, time spent with family and friends catching up on good food and wine, outings and a few good walks on the mountain with the dogs who never left my side whilst I was home.
Time to for a road trip through the mountains of the Western Cape all the way to Knysna and back, time to shake off house arrest as we call it living in PH and do the things I have thought about doing for the last six months.
I wanted to drive through the mountains, eat Karoo lamb and Boerewors off the coals, taste some good wine and even enjoy a glass of good pot still brandy – only as Boplaas in Calitzdorp can make.
For this adventure I did some advance planning with our route and accommodation. Four nights away, twenty three passes and poorts to traverse and a walk on Robberg Peninsula were on the agenda.
So this read will take us away from the swamp and rather along an amazing road trip crossing the Swartberg Mountains with a highlight being returning to Gamkaskloof (Die Hel).
Day 1 – Destination Kruisriver
Accompanied by my son Ryan (chief photographer) and a good friend of mine Chris we set off down the N1, a great feeling with the open road and several kilometres of travel ahead.
Over Du Toits Kloof pass, on through Hex River Poort and then Hex River Pass to a fuel stop in Laingsburg and a visit to the local butchery. Here we purchased a pile of thickly cut lamb loin chops and a good coil of what turned out to be an excellent Boerewors.
Turning south off the N1 onto the R323 we headed toward the foothills of the Swartberg, over Rooineks Pass with the backdrop of the ever looming mountains ahead of us and now onto gravel road, then through Seweweeks Poort to R62. The countryside was lush and green and here and there were patches of vivid yellows and purples of the last of the spring flowers.
The mountainside through the poort was burnt out from a fire last summer and the new growth coming to life after the winter rains was evident. In fact this area recently had heavy rains and the Klein Karoo and surrounds were very lush. The road through the poort is most spectacular as it twists and winds its way through the mountains looming overhead.
Turning east on R62 we soon descended the Huisriver Pass with its attendant baboons, crossed the Gamka River which we were to recross the following day and soon arrived in Calitzdorp.
Once again a visit to the local butcher which has been a tradition of mine for many years for more lamb chops, a quick stop at Boplaas Estate for a bottle of pot still and then to Calitzdorp Winery for some reds. All of these supplies go hand in hand and make those nights spent in the area more enjoyable, particularly under the stars on a clear night.
Continuing eastward for a few kilometres we then turned off to Kruisriver, our stop for the night.
Passing through the scenic Red Stone Hills with the road headed straight into the foothills of the Swartberg through Kruisriver Poort we soon arrived at our destination – Kruisriver Guest Farm with the old miller’s cottage being our accommodation for the night. Distance traveled today – 590 kilometres.
On collecting the key we were warmly welcomed by the farmer’s wife, shown around and given some history of the farm. Nothing to beat true Karoo farm hospitality, even from their two lovely Labradors who spent most of the evening and next morning with us. Perhaps they knew there would be tit bits from the braai.
Alongside the cottage was the mill stream, now diverted away from the building, the waterwheels axle was still in place but no more wheel. The stream flowed along the front of the patio where we were to braai.
That evening we enjoyed the first of our lamb chops and wors, seasoned with a freshly picked lemon from a tree in the garden, all washed down with a few bottles of Tinta and Touriga Nacional. No stars to be seen this night, dark ominous clouds were gathering in the mountains above us.
Day 2 – Destination Boplaas (Die Hel)
The following morning we set off under a low wet grey cloud as we continued easterly toward the R328 – the Swartberg Pass with the mountains on our left hidden under the mantle of rain cloud. Would the pass be open, what if it was snowing or will snow whilst we are in Die Hel?
The Swartberg Pass, an all time favourite of mine built by the master pass builder – Thomas Bain and a historical monument climbs spectacularly over the mountain to descend towards Prince Albert on the northern side. The pass remains unchanged since it was built 127 years ago.
The weather was not on our side with the low cloud so unfortunately the view to the south was obscured however the rich mountain fynbos covering the southern slopes more than made up for it.
It was good to be here again, surrounded by the raw beauty of it all. I reminded myself of the many times spent here botanising, stopping to identify the Proteas, Erica’s and other species which abound the mountainside.
A brief stop at Die Top, it was too chilly to get out and there was no view so on we continued to the turnoff.
Gamkaskloof 37km – Travelling time 2 hours the sign says. Yes, ahead of us lay three mountain passes ending in the nail biting drop of 570 metres down the Elandspad to the valley floor.
The road is good, just take it easy, enjoy the scenery, admire the fynbos and look for birds and animals.
Greeting us at the start of the road was the welcoming arch of a rainbow, the first of many on this trip.
En route we passed several Klipspringer who showed no fear as we slowly passed them by, you could have stroked them from the car window as they stood frozen on the roadside.
Crossing the final nek and beginning to descend suddenly the valley called Gamkaskloof stretches away into the distance in front of you. Below you the road zig zags across the mountainside at a fearsome angle. There is barely enough room for one vehicle, let alone one coming in the opposite direction with a frightening drop to the side.
Time to take the seat belt off, just in case.
Soon we were at the bottom and crossed into the Cape Nature area as we headed toward the western end of the valley. Scattered along the valley floor are the restored farmsteads available for self-catering accommodation, a place to get away from the madding crowd and the bustle of city life.
Our destination was Boplaas farm, a large tract of the valley privately owned at the western end with a few self-catering cottages – all off limits unless you have a reservation.
Crossing the Gamka River again – this time driving through it and a stop at the informative information centre where once again I visited the preserved Nordic water mill. One can imagine the wheel turning and the fine cloud of flour dust in the air.
The history of the valley is fascinating and well worth researching for those interested.
By midday we had arrived at our destination – Oom Hannes se Huis with a wonderful outdoor area set under the shade of an old Pepper tree. Suitably appointed the cottage boasts a lovely kitchen with a Dover stove and all the basics that you would require in a place like this. Even the bed linen was of good quality and most certainly a place I would recommend and return too.
A short walk along the riverside led to what would be a lovely swimming spot in summer; on the cliff side opposite were some faded San paintings but most of all was the peace and tranquillity of Die Hel, it was good to be back.
Once again that evening was spent around the fire with the aroma of lamb and wors on the coals together with a few other accompaniments and of course a bottle of red wine or two. Again cloud and an occasional light drizzle obscured the night sky.
Today was the shortest days drive with less than 100 kilometres traveled with time to relax and enjoy where we were.
Day 3 – Destination Knysna
We started the day with another sortie to the end of the valley – this time to the farm called Kleinberg which is the original farm of the valley. I had always wanted to see “Die Leer”. The ladder being one of the few access routes into the valley where goods of all shapes, weights and sizes were carried in and out of the valley on an almost vertical path extending 900 m up the mountainside.
Well at last I have seen it and even climbed the first 50 m, maybe next time I will ascend it.
As we ascended the Elandspad behind us another rainbow sparkled in the Scotch mist across the valley we returned to the Swartberg Pass and turned north to descend to Prince Albert for fuel.
This is certainly the best and most dramatic side of the pass and ideally the pass should be driven from north to south so as to admire the engineering brilliance of the day. There are plenty of books on the construction of this pass as well as an interesting display in the Prince Alfred Museum for those who care to visit.
As we descended through the tortured rock formations to the north it is noticeable the vegetation change as the countryside becomes dryer as the mountain slopes lead out onto the plains of the Great Karoo.
A quick fuel stop in Prince Albert, a pretty Karoo town tucked up against the foothills of the Swartberg and then along the R407 over the Kredouws Pass and onto Klaarstroom joining the N12 south leading south through Meirings Poort.
Here is another spectacular poort weaving its way through the Swartberg with the road crossing the river 24 times. Just three weeks previously the road was closed with the river in flood after heavy rains in the Karoo.
Above the twisted layers of the sandstone peaks tower into the sky making this road truly spectacular with several stopping places on the way for you to admire the scenery.
Exiting the poort at Die Rust we turned east yet again on the R341 toward Willowmore driving under a light drizzle we turned south on the R339 to join the N9 just outside Uniondale and then travelling through the Uniondale – Avontuur Pass to cross R62 and head south to the Prince Albert Pass down to Die Vlug and then onto Knysna.
Being close enough to Knysna we had a quick beer stop at Angies G spot and then pressed on.
Not more than 40 kilometres from Knysna we rounded a bend to find a queue of cars halted in front of us. Thinking that there was an accident we stopped and were told that a truck carrying a container had overturned just up ahead and the road was blocked with little chance of it being cleared before nightfall. What a container truck was doing on this road will never be known, the signs clearly indicate they should not be there.
Not wanting to waste time we did a quick U-turn and headed back to Die Vlug and then up another road to exit back on the N9 (R62). Fortunately I have traveled this area extensively and knew of this road otherwise it would have meant going all the way back up the Prince Alfred Pass to the main road.
Somewhat irritated we sped westward again to descend the Outeniqua Pass to George, through Kaaimans Gat Pass to meet the sea and then through Wilderness to Knysna arriving at sunset. It was a long day’s drive with about half of the 420 kilometres being traveled on gravel roads with the detour adding about 160 kilometres extra.
The next two nights’ accommodation was kindly arranged by my old boss at the hotel that I used to manage – Premier Hotel Knysna – The Moorings in the villa that I lived in for two years.
Warm welcomes and hugs, one that almost broke my ribs (which are still tender as I write) we descended on my old local Bosuns for a well earned beer or three and to catch up with some old friends followed by dinner at Tapas.
Day 4 – Robberg Peninsula
I had arranged with an old colleague to join me for a hike. Off we set for Plettenberg Bay and more importantly – Robberg Peninsula to take a brisk walk to the point and back.
With Gary, Ryan and myself we set off for the point, a circular walk of 11 kilometres. It was great to be back here and enjoy the walk but being the first real one that I had done in months I took a little strain but we still managed it in good time.
Unfortunately the wind was quite strong and the sea not being clear so no sighting of sharks or dolphins but as usual there were seals by the thousands. This peninsula is still one of my most favourite places in the country and I have walked to the point over 50 times over the years. I will be back.
The rest of the day was spent braaing with old friends and catching up which ended up being a good bash followed by fond farewells.
Day 5 – Homeward bound
Today we intended to travel along the N2 to Heidelberg with the intention of crossing the Langeberg over the Gysmanshoek Pass, back onto R62 and then home. Our first pass of the day was Brak River Heights Pass on the N2 which you hardly notice as you speed along on the dual carriage way.
We could not find directions to the Gysmanshoek Pass and those who we asked had never heard of it so we set off from Heidelberg on the R322 to meet the southern side of the Tradouw Pass and cross the mountains to meet R62 outside Barrydale.
I think by this stage of our journey we were a little passed out and were keen to get home.
The next one on the list was Op die Tradouw Pass, a steep climb requiring low gear toward the top. As you descend the plateau the view along the valley toward Montague was very colourful with the fruit trees in blossom and Bloupunt of the Langeberg in the far distance standing out tall.
Next up was Cogmanskloof Pass with its Boer War fort perched on top of the hand cut tunnel that passes through the rock ridge as we left Montague to join R60 at Ashton and then bypassing Worcester and rejoining the N1 at the eastern end of Du Toits Kloof Pass.
Exiting the tunnel we were not far now and by mid afternoon we were home.
An exhilarating journey it was taking in 23 passes and poorts over 1,650 kilometres.
Back here in the swamp I have settled in well, a bit like home now with some good memories and lots of photographs of a wonderful road trip to keep me going until my next visit home.
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