Once a stop-and-go experience, museum dining has evolved over the years into something of an art form in and of itself.
By Allison Hata
Known for providing sustenance more than a stimulation of the senses, culinary offerings in museums have long been an afterthought in the worlds of both fine dining and art—a cafe nestled within the building is just a convenient way to end a culture-soaked day of artful exploration. Modern museums, however, are marrying the two and creating transcendent experiences designed to inspire a visitor’s sense of taste after providing visual stimulation in the form of sculptures, paintings, photographs and more.
Coast to coast—from the critically acclaimed Modern at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York to The Moss Room at the California Academy of Sciences in San Francisco—high-end restaurants are raising the reputation of on-site museum eateries. No just longer pit stops between galleries, these establishments are transforming the museum dining experience into an edible artistic adventure that’s separate from the exhibitions themselves. Here, explore where art and culinary prowess collide.
Chefs combine culinary prowess with artistic talent at several of the most critically acclaimed museum restaurants across North America. (Photo courtesy of Tangata)
Tangata
Orange County, Calif.
In an open, mission-style courtyard at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, Calif., Executive Chef Chris Brodeur takes Tangata diners’ taste buds on a whirlwind tour of flavors. Though the restaurant’s name conjures up images of exotic fare—it translates to “mankind” in the tribal Maori language of New Zealand—patrons are more likely to find fresh ingredients and California cuisine on their plates.
“We [utilize] many seasonal ingredients, from spring peas to multiple radishes and citrus,” Brodeur says. “We also outsource all of our greens from local farms in Southern California, as well as sustainable fish.”
Locally sourced ingredients are abundant on Tangata’s menu, which offers a la carte options in addition to a prix fixe meal that coincides with one of the museum’s current exhibitions. (Photo courtesy of Tangata)
Touted as one of the top lunch spots in Orange County by local critics, Tangata features a bi-seasonal menu of starters, salads, sandwiches, entrees and desserts. This summer, Brodeur says diners can expect to see the popular “rojo blanco” (red and white) radish salad return to the menu, in addition to a Mediterranean-inspired lamb belly dish. “Less is more,” Brodeur says of his philosophy for the restaurant. “I use seasonal, fresh products.”
In addition to a la carte options, the prix fixe Museum Market Menu offers a thoughtfully curated meal that coincides with a current exhibit on display in the museum. Chef Brodeur takes inspiration from the cultural influences at Bowers and transforms them into a two-course celebration of art and food. Though it’s only open for lunch, there’s also a generous list of wine by the glass or bottle, plus specialty drinks like the Blacklisted, featuring Elijah Craig 12-year bourbon, fresh blackberries, honey syrup and fresh lemon juice—perfect for sipping on a sunny California afternoon.
Whether visitors are stopping by for a power lunch or a leisurely gourmet affair, all will enjoy Tangata’s Southwestern style decor, with glass walls, stucco beams and large windows, as well as the alfresco seating that perfectly complements the light, contemporary fare imagined by the culinary team.
What to see at the museum: “Heavenly Horses: two thousand years of Chinese and Japanese equine art” (through Nov. 16)
Verde opts for simple yet elegant dishes on its menu, including the hamachi sashimi with citrus ponzu.
Verde
Miami
The latest museum to debut in south Florida, Pérez Art Museum Miami also brings with it a brand-new restaurant and bar: Verde, which offers international cuisine with a menu highlighting local ingredients for lunch, in addition to dinner service on Thursday evenings.
Chef Nicolay Adinaguev blends international cuisine with local ingredients.
In just a few words, Executive Chef Nicolay Adinaguev sums up the concept of Verde, which is reflected in everything from its aesthetics to the food: “Simple, clean and fresh,” he says.
Operated by the museum’s exclusive catering partner, Stephen Starr Events, the 104-seat restaurant makes use of the building’s contemporary design. Gauze-like material drapes the concrete walls for a softer approach, accented by pendant lighting, wood tables and a neutral color palette.
This simple approach successfully translates to the menu, with a careful selection of elegant options available under a handful of categories. Starters range from charcuterie plates to raw offerings, such as beef carpaccio or hamachi sashimi with citrus ponzu, while heartier dishes include some of the chef’s favorites—a squash blossom pizza and a side order of sauteed lacinato kale with toasted faro and salsa verde.
The squash blossom pizza is one of the chef’s favorites.
“We are [also] planning to add light dishes like ceviche,” he continues. “We have a rock shrimp ceviche with passion fruit that we have been using for special events, and I … expect to see something like that make it on the menu.”
In addition to the gourmet fare, there’s also a full bar featuring specialty cocktails like the guava margarita and passion fruit cilantro caipirinha.
Guava margarita
The main draw of Verde for patrons, however, is the unparalleled waterfront location.
Adinaguev adds, “You would be hard-pressed to find a prettier location with views of the bay and port of Miami.”
What to see at the museum: “Americana” (through May 1, 2015)
The Moss Room incorporates sustainable and organic items into its menu. (Courtesy of Slanted Door Group)
The Moss Room
San Francisco
From the lunch-only menu that’s infused with fresh, local ingredients to its environmentally friendly design, The Moss Room at the California Academy of Sciences takes a thoughtful approach to keeping the museum’s objectives in mind.
“The academy mission is to explore, explain and sustain, and we kind of use that philosophy for our menus too,” says Edward Vicedo, The Moss Room’s general manager. “We want to make sure that we are sustainable, our food is easily understood and explained, and [we] introduce something new.”
Most dishes at the restaurant are entirely seasonal, incorporating local, sustainable and organic items from local farmers whenever possible. This summer, Vicedo says tomatoes are “everywhere”—which translates to a menu ripe with creative uses of the ingredient. Potential dishes include an heirloom tomato and mozzarella salad, ratatouille and chilled gazpacho. Some of the menu items are even closely inspired by what’s on display within the expansive museum buildings, in addition to James Beard-nominated Executive Chef Charles Phan’s Vietnamese influences.
Many of the restaurant’s dishes are inspired by the California Academy of Sciences’ exhibitions. (Courtesy of Slanted Door Group)
“We bring forth new ideas as far as cuisine goes to further something of a new discovery with our food,” Vicedo adds. “What’s really important for Charles and our chef [de cuisine] is that our food needs to have history; it has to have authenticity—also a story. So we might introduce … Filipino food, because there is the Philippine coral reef inside the academy.”
Beyond the menu, the space itself is the ultimate reflection of the museum’s mission of sustainability, designed with the academy’s Double LEED-Platinum status in mind. Upon entering The Moss Room, patrons are greeted by a 28-foot-high, 40-foot-long living wall set above a 2,300-gallon freshwater tank with more than 30 kinds of South Asian fish.
The 28-foot-high living wall makes a statement. (Photo by Ryan Hughes)
“One of the highlights of our dining rooms is a cross-section of a fallen redwood tree that has been turned into a table,” Vicedo says, adding that reclaimed materials are used throughout the space.
“We want to educate, whether it’s about sustainability or ingredients from our local farmers,” he continues. “That is the ‘explain’ part of the mission. Anybody who comes to The Moss Room [has come] to the academy to learn something, so we want to have that concept with our food also.”
What to see at the museum: “Earthquake” (ongoing)
Appetizers are beautifully plated and incorporate fresh, simple ingredients.
Laurel
San Juan, Puerto Rico
The Museum of Art of Puerto Rico is known for drawing talented star chefs. Wilo Benet’s acclaimed Pikayo once reigned over the culinary space at the museum, but Mario Pagán was more than happy to step in to fill the void once the spot was vacated a few years back. Pagán is among the top talent in Puerto Rico, having graduated from the prestigious Johnson & Wales University before working in kitchens around the country and participating in the Food Network’s “The Next Iron Chef” competition.
Dishes like the signature Chilean sea bass with yucca puree and asparagus highlight the restaurant’s “nuevo Caribe” cuisine.
In 2010, he brought the innovative Laurel restaurant to the popular museum, showcasing his “nuevo Caribe” (new Caribbean) cuisine inspired by the fresh ingredients available year-round on the island. Traditional Puerto Rican favorites are elevated here with an expert touch—simple ingredients, like plantains and fish, become savory starters and entrees. Beautifully presented, dishes like the swordfish over breadfruit mousse and the coconut-coated shrimp with guava and soy sauce become edible works of art. A must-try dish that’s highly touted by locals is Pagán’s signature Chilean sea bass, served with yucca puree over a port wine reduction. The menu consists of a generous offering of appetizers, charcuterie, fish and seafood, meats and desserts.
Chocolate-hazelnut mousse on a coconut crust
An understated ambience complements the fresh fare, ensuring that food takes center stage at the restaurant. The design is nothing to gloss over, however—throughout the elegant space, expertly placed lights provide pops of color and cast dramatic shadows on the ceiling and walls. Patrons can stop at the small bar space to order a locally inspired cocktail, or head straight to the dining room and take a seat in one of the well-appointed white chairs or modern upholstered benches.
Laurel’s chic atmosphere sets the stage for its critically acclaimed fare.
With a chic interior design and a menu bursting with island flavor, it doesn’t come as a surprise that Laurel is a highly praised gem on Puerto Rico’s culinary map.
What to see at the museum: “Interconnections: Curatorial Readings of the Permanent Collection” (through Dec. 31, 2015)
The restaurant boasts two private dining rooms and a bar area.
The Modern
New York City
“How can you not be inspired every time you walk in the door of MoMA?” asks Dino Lavorini, director of operations for Art Food, which oversees The Modern, Cafe 2 and Terrace 5 at the Museum of Modern Art.
The Modern, the museum’s Michelin-starred French fine dining restaurant, takes the concept of artistic inspiration and infuses it into every corner of its space. The dining room is minimal in design, with the intent being that the people and dishes will add color and movement. One of the four walls features a single photograph, “Clearing” by Thomas Demand, while another wall is made up of glass panes so diners can overlook the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Sculpture Garden that features works ranging from Picasso to Miró.
“Every interaction throughout the day with the art on the walls inspires creation on the plate,” Lavorini says. “The Modern is curating its own new exhibit with the introduction of a new executive chef after nine years. … Summer is sure to be a particularly exciting time …, as the menu will really reflect chef Abram [Bissell’s] culinary vision at that time.”
The Modern features a four-course tasting experience and a seasonal menu.
Bissell has taken the helm of an award-winning establishment—The Modern holds four James Beard Foundation Awards and three stars from The New York Times—at an exciting time in the culinary world. In early summer, Lavorini expects strawberries to play a starring role on diner’s plates; late summer will highlight the bounty of the tomato harvest. The season will close with concord grapes as a featured ingredient.
“Each season invokes inspiration, as do new exhibits,” Lavorini explains. “Seasonality and sustainability are important drivers of the face of our menu.”
Delicately prepared flounder
Museumgoers, as well as those coming exclusively for the four-course prix fixe tasting meal experience, can frequent the restaurant for both lunch and dinner. In addition to the main dining room, The Modern features two private dining spaces and The Bar Room, a more casual dining and bar area that serves small plates—all accessible via a separate street level entrance that allows patrons to visit outside of museum hours.
What to see at the museum: “Christopher Williams: The Production Line of Happiness” (Aug. 2 – Nov. 2)
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