2014-03-18



Bronx Cocktail Is Uptown With Manhattan And Martini

In the 1930s & 40s, if you asked someone to name the classic cocktail, the Bronx would be a close contender to the Manhattan and the Martini. In fact, its really a perfect* variation of the latter with orange juice added to the mix.

History Of The Bronx Cocktail

Zoo You See Wild Animals After Drinking Too?

Johnnie Solan† under the assumed name Johnnie Solon is largely credited‡ with inventing the Bronx Cocktail while bartending at the Big Brass barroom at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel around 1900. Solon recounted the details of his story years later with Albert Stevens Crockett who included part of the interview in the Old Waldorf Astoria Bar Book he published in 1934.

Turns out that the Bronx Cocktail is named after the zoo, and not the borough or New York City’s only fresh water river, the 24 mile long stretch of waterway honoring colonial settler Jonas Bronck. Coincidentally, the Bronx Zoological Park and the neighboring Gardens opened to the public on November 8, 1899, the same year Johnnie Solon is said to have started tending bar at the Waldorf.

The Bronx Cocktail’s creation was inspired by a drink called the Duplex mixed with equal parts of French and Italian vermouths along with an orange peel or a couple dashes of orange bitters. Johnnie had just been mixing up a patron’s Duplex when Traverson, the head waiter from Waldorf-Astoria’s main dining area, the Empire Room, walked into the bar and challenged him to create an original drink recipe. Then he added a double dare by saying he had a customer who said “he couldn’t do it.”

Johnnie Solon’s Original Bronx Cocktail Recipe:

2 jiggers  gin

1 jigger  orange juice

1 dash  French vermouth

1 dash  Italian vermouth

After shaking, Johnnie handed the drink to Traverson to try without sampling himself. His co-worker thought Johnnie was on to something really new and that it would turn out to be a big hit. With a visit to the Bronx Zoo a day or two earlier still fresh in his memory, combined with customers occasionally telling him of the visions of strange animals they saw after having a few too many, Traverson was told to tell the customer who challenged him that this new drink was called a ‘Bronx.’

Extra! Extra! Read All About It!

The first printed recipe1 for the Bronx Cocktail, known so far, appeared in the July 14, 1905 edition of the Eau Claire (Wisconsin) Leader in reference to another mixed drink, the Sergeant Brue. In a New York Correspondence column which was at least in part a summary of popular drink fads in the city at the time, the article quotes someone, possibly a bartender, from the Marlborough Hotel, corner of Broadway & 36th Street in Manhattan, as saying:

“The one called-for novelty here is the Sergeant Brue. The formula is: ‘Orange peel, two dashes angostura, one dash absinthe, two dashes benedictine or similar liquor, French vermouth, Italian vermouth and gin, equal parts.’ This must be frapped, and it forms an excellent summer appetizer.” ~ J.T. Sullivan

The newspaper correspondent then goes on to say that a downtown favorite there in the summer was the Bronx Cocktail, comparing it to be exactly like the Sergeant Blue cocktail, but without the absinthe and benedictine. Also noting that the fad for it too was to be prepared as a frappe, not stirred with ice. So, by deduction the recipe is as follows.

The Bronx Cocktail (earliest in print, 1905):

1/3  gin

1/3  French vermouth

1/3  Italian vermouth

2 dashes  angostura bitters

orange peel

By the way: Like the Adonis, Rob Roy and countless others, it was commonplace at the time to create signature drinks for Broadway plays. There’s little doubt that the Sergeant Blue cocktail followed suit and was named after the three act musical farce that opened with two runs at the Knickerbocker Theater on April 24, 1905 before closing at the Grand Opera House after 101 total performances on March 26, 1906.

Honorable Mentions In Early Cocktail Recipe Books

The Bronx Cocktail a la Billy Malloy of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania appears in the Honorable William T. (Cocktail) Boothby’s 1907 book, The World’s Drinks And How To Mix Them, as one-third each Plymouth gin along with both French and Italian vermouths, flavored with two dashes of orange bitters, about a bar-spoon of orange juice and a peel, squeezed. Serve very cold.

In Jack’s Manual on The Vintage, Production, Care and Handling of Wines, Liquors, etc., a Handbook of Information for Home, Club or Hotel, Recipes for Fancy Mixed Drinks and When & How to Serve by J.A. Grohusko (1910), the Bronx Cocktail makes another early recipe book appearance. The directions there list the ingredients as 50% dry gin, 25% each French and Italian vermouths with a twist of orange peel. Fill glass with ice, shake and strain, serve.

Bronx Wins Bronze Medal In Cocktail Olympics

During its heyday, The Bronx Cocktail was listed as the third most popular conventional drink in the Western world in Burke’s Complete Cocktail & Drinking Recipes, with Recipes for Food Bits for the Cocktail Hour by Harman Burney Burke (1934). His top 10 then are listed below.

1930s Most Popular Conventional Cocktails:

Martini

Manhattan

Bronx Cocktail

Old Fashioned Whiskey Cocktail

Sidecar

Clover Club Cocktail

Gin Rickey

Gin Fizz

Bacardi Cocktail

Alexander Cocktail No. 1

Over half of these drinks then failed to make our more current list now, which is in no particular order. Times sure have changed.

A Pop Culture Timeline

1914 - A young F. Scott Fitzgerald, as a sophomore in college on Christmas break, sends newly met girlfriend Ginevra King a telegram saying he and his friend Sap Donahoe met up on the train ride from St. Paul, Minnesota back to Princeton, New Jersey and celebrated with a quart of Sauterne wine and three Bronxes. Apparently reliving a previous trip to New York where he had shocked Sap at the time by tossing down several Bronx cocktails in a row.2

1915 - Photoplay celebrity magazine spoofs the daily athletic training regimen of the silent film actor and comedian, Roscoe Conkling ‘Fatty’ Arbuckle, in the food equivalent of exercising by doing bicep curls of 12 ounce beer cans. Fatty Arbuckle’s workout dinners included: “Martini or Bronx, crabmeat cocktails, a dozen raw oysters… Roquefort cheese with toasted crackers,” and a dozen other delicacies in between. While obviously exaggerated for comedic effect, the menu reflected popular food and drink selections of the 1910s, the Bronx cocktail among them.3

1919 - Two restless days and sleepless nights after Rosalind broke up with him, Amory stumbles into the Knickerbocker Bar and starts helping himself to free olives at the buffet table. Well into the feeding frenzy, Jim Wilson, an old college buddy from Princeton comes over and asks about going to the reunion and if he wants to have a drink, then retracts his invite saying Armory had probably already had plenty judging by his appearance and seeing him drop some olives. “Plenty, hell! I haven’t had a drink today,” said Armory. “Have a drink or not?” At the bar, Jim orders a rye high and Armory says, “I’ll just take a Bronx,” which was followed by several more.4

1922 - Although the Bronx cocktail was never specifically mentioned in The Great Gatsby, there is a passage that talks about how five crates of oranges and lemons were delivered to the Gatsby mansion out on Long Island every Friday and run through a mechanized juice extractor for the weekend parties. Apparently the machine had a capacity for 400 oranges per hour as long as the butler’s thumb could press the little button fast enough. Sort of implies The Great One, sorry that’s Gretzky, The Great Gatsby and his wild partying High Society guests had a love of Bronx cocktails which were very popular at the time. Note: the book was published in 1925, the same year the Mimosa was created in Paris, but was set in the fictional town of West Egg in the summer of 1922, so there would have been no Mimosas at Gatsby’s great gatherings, yet. Orange Blossoms, probably.

1934 - In the movie The Thin Man, a group of bartenders are instructed that when mixing the top three cocktails from Burke’s list above to shake, shake, shake each to the beat of a different dance style i.e music in 2/4, 3/4, 4/4 time, etc. The Bronx cocktail shakes to country western. See what’s shaking with the other drinks in the video clip below. ↓

1940 - W. E. B. DuBois5 talked about the sanctimonious Reverend J. Simpson Stodges, D.D. When not preaching sermons to his faithful flock of followers praising the merits of simple living and poverty over riches, he himself wore Brooks Brothers made to order clothes with bespoke tailoring, played keen golf, smoked a rare weed and last, but not least, knew a Bronx cocktail from a Manhattan.

1948 - In an article6 for New Yorker Magazine, H. L. Menken wrote about the fact that there are so many cocktails now that not even the very best bartenders can memorize how to make them all, even if someone could figure out how to try them all, citing the Savoy Cocktail Book (1930) at almost 700 recipes and Trader Vic’s Bartender’s Guide (1948) at over 1600 as examples. Besides, he says, some of the more savvy have learned to limit their “day-in-and-day-out boozing” to a dozen or so classics like the Alexander, Bronx, Daiquiri, Manhattan, Martini, Orange Blossom, Sidecar and few others, mentioning lexicographer John Russell Bartlett also included the Jersey and the Japanese cocktail in his 1877 Dictionary of Americanisms list.

Behind The Bar - How To Mix Da Bronx Cocktail At Home

As the Bronx Cocktail faded from limelight, the drink variations noted above and elsewhere have become completely obscured by the myriad of choices that the craft-cocktail tsunami has washed ashore in the last couple decades. For the few, the proud, the marinas [sic] who still serve D’Bronx cocktail, the former International Bartender’s Association official recipe is probably the one its most associated with and enjoyed, maybe.

After all, its no longer recognized or considered Da Bomb!

Bronx Cocktail Recipe (previously sanctioned as official by the IBA7):

1 oz  gin

1/2 oz  orange juice

1/2 oz  Italian vermouth (sweet)

2 tsp  French Vermouth (dry)

Orange twist for garnish

Add the gin, OJ and both vermouths to a shaker with ice. Shake thoroughly and strain into a chilled glass. Optionally, garnish with an orange twist or peel.

In The Movies

A Bronx Tale

Whoops, that wasn’t the drink. It was a Molotov Cocktail in The Bronx borough, though.

The Bronx Cocktail - The Movie

Yes, The Bronx Cocktail was the actual title of a silent movie8 produced by the Independent Moving Pictures Company of America in 1912. It was released as a split reel in black and white as a comedy short together with another called A Bad Tangle. Details regarding the plot or cast of characters seem to be unavailable.

There is quite a bit known about IMP though. After all, it was founded by Carl Laemmle, father of the Hollywood star system who was considered by many to be the original movie mogul, and is now known as Universal Pictures. They stole “America’s First Movie Star” Florence Lawrence, the Biograph Girl away from the Motion Picture Manufacturing and Sales Company in 1910 and signed Mary Pickford, who has her own signature drink by the way, shortly after. Its possible one or both of these actresses starred in The Bronx Cocktail movie, but they cranked out dozens of these short silents every year and America’s Sweetheart, Little Mary did leave IMP sometime in 1912.

The Thin Man

Former private detective Nick Charles (William Powell) is not thrilled about coming out of retirement to find the thin man with white hair Clyde Wynant (Edward Ellis), but his wealthy and thrill-seeking wife Nora (Myrna Loy) is. The Manhattan, the Martini, highballs and cocktails in general all had drinking roles in The Thin Man film which was nominated for the Academy Award for Best Picture in 1934, but we’re shining the spotlight on The Bronx Cocktail for now. Its featured in the first video clip in the montage above, followed by some more scenes with drinking humor.

Shake your cocktails to the rhythm of the music starts off the highlights. Transcript is below.

Nick: [Giving tips on how to mix some of the popular cocktails of the day to a group of bartenders behind the bar.] The important thing is the rhythm. Always have rhythm in your shaking. Now a Manhattan you shake to Foxtrot time, a Bronx to two-step time, a dry Martini you always shake to Waltz time. [Places martini on serving tray and then steps back from the bar. Leo, the waiter, then turns and presents the drink, Nick picks up the glass, nods appreciation and then samples the bouquet while moving the cocktail back and forth directly under his nose. Note: the Texas two-step is 2/4 time, the Waltz is 3/4 time and the Foxtrot is music in 4/4 time.]

Nora: How many drinks have you had? [Seated at a table with Nick.]

Nick: This will make six Martinis.

Nora: All right. Will you bring me five more Martinis, Leo? Line them right up here. [Apparently playing catch up.]

Leo: Yes, ma’am.

Nick: Hmm.

Nora: Hey what about me, I mean us.

Nick: Oh, this is a stag. Look, Molly you drink up some of your winnings. Uh, barkeeper, bring Mrs. Charles 240 Martinis, we won’t be long.

Nora: I’ve heard that before. Come on Molly.

Nick: Ammunition? Come on, stock up. [Carrying a tray of drinks at a tuxedo and black tie party.]

Man leaning against the wall: No, I’ll let this one ride. Thanks.

Nick: You better. Hard times may get you.

Woman seated by the man standing: Nick, who are these amazing people?

Nick: Oh, just a lot of old friends, Romans, countrymen. What do you say?

Man #2: This is like old times Nick. Remember the fun we used have when we were flat broke?

Nick: Oh, don’t I.

Man #2: Those were the good old days.

Nick: Don’t kid yourself. These are the good old days.

Man #3: Hey, Nick. I think your wife is great. [Someone who’s had too much to drink with false teeth removed.]

Nick: Thanks, I want you to see her and I want her to see you.

Man #4: Want to buy a piece of this pug Nick? I’ll sell you 25% of him for five grand.

Nick: Is he good?

Man #4: He’s been knocking them cold lately and ain’t afraid to fight nobody. [He says to Nick.] Put that down or I’ll slug you. [Said to the boxer in training behind him who reaches for a cocktail.]

Nick: Yeah, I’ll take a large piece of him. [Nick turns to another guest.] Having a good time? [Walks around the back of the room.] Here’s that man again. Ammunition? Highballs and cocktails, the long and short of it. That’s a pun I’m sure should be punished. [Smiles and continues to work the room.] For tomorrow may bring sorrow, so tonight let us be gay. [Singing.]

Nora: More cocktails?

Men by fireplace mantel: Thank you very much.

Man #3: I certainly think you’re husband is great. [Still drunk, slurring his words and missing his two front teeth.]

Nora: Have a cocktail? [Answers the front door with dog Asta watching. Reaches around with the tray to offer a drink before he steps in or she can even see who it is.]

Face: Is Nick Charles here?

Nora: Yes.

Face: Your his wife?

Nora: Yes. Hey, Nick.

Face: Nice guy. Sent me up the river once. Hi, Nick.

Nick: Hello, Face.

Face: Long time no see.

Nick: Long time.

Face: Well I needed the rest.

Nora: Was he a good detective?

Face: I wouldn’t know. That time he caught me was an accident if I remember right.

Nick: Ha ha. Come on kid, shed the (1930s & 1940s slang for coat. Do you know the word for it?). I’ll bet you can’t wait to join the Yuletide revelers. Hey revelers, I want you to know ‘Face’ Tefler. Now all you have to do is find out who they are.

Similar Sips

The Antiqua, Chorus Lady and Yellow Rattler drink recipes all use the same four ingredients as the former IBA official Bronx Cocktail does, just in different proportions, calling for specific brands, etc. Here’s some more riffs on the recipe below.

Bronx Cocktail Variations:

Bronx Terrace - swaps lime juice for OJ and no sweet vermouth.

Golden Bronx - adds egg yolk.

Silver Bronx - adds egg white.

Drinks Mixed With At Least 3 Of The Same Ingredients As The Bronx:

Beauty Spot Cocktail - a Bronx Cocktail with grenadine.

Church Lady Martini / Three Stripes Cocktail - gin, dry vermouth and OJ.

Dandie - an Orange Blossom with a few dashes of curacao.

Income Tax / Smiler Cocktail - adds aromatic bitters to Da Bronx.

Orange Blossom - gin, orange juice and sweet vermouth (optional).

Peter Pan Cocktail - gin, OJ, dry vermouth and peach bitters.

Satan’s Whiskers - straight: the Bronx with Grand Marnier & orange bitters; curled: use curacao instead of the liqueur.

Tango Cocktail - a Curled Satan’s Whiskers minus the orange bitters.

Will Rogers - gin, OJ, dry vermouth and curacao.

References

* - Perfect cocktails contain a duplex of equal parts of both sweet and dry vermouth.

† - Mike Solan comments on why his famous bartending grandfather used an alias while working at the Waldorf-Astoria at the turn of the 20th century. The minor spelling change seems unlikely to conceal the identity of the Bronx Cocktail creator as effectively as say the Mark Twain nom de plume of Samuel Clemens would for example, but family privacy was the reason given.

‡ - New York by way of Philly? An alternate source credits the Bronx Cocktail’s birthplace as Philadelphia. What Shall We Drink?: Popular Drinks, Recipes and Toasts by Magnus Bredenbek (1934) says the drink was discovered in the Quaker City in 1905 by Bronx restaurateur, Joseph Sormani, with the recipe being 4:1:1 gin, orange juice and Italian sweet red vermouth. His New York Times obituary also says he originated the drink. Hmm?

1 - Twitter pic of 1905 newspaper column first referencing the Bronx cocktail via @mixellany.

2 - Scott Fitzgerald by Andrew Turnbull (1962) via F. Scott Fitzgerald Papers, Princeton University Library.

3 - Heavyweight Athletics, Photoplay Magazine, August, 1915.

4 - This Side Of Paradise by F. Scott Fitzgerald (1920).

5 - Dusk of Dawn: An Essay Toward an Autobiography of a Race Concept by William Edward Burghardt Du Bois, Oxford University Press, 1940.

6 - Postscripts to the American Language, “The Vocabulary of the Drinking Chamber” by H. L. Mencken; The New Yorker, November 6, 1948, p. 108.

7 - Prior to 2008, the Bronx Cocktail was an IBA Official Cocktail classified as a before-dinner aperitif along with the Americano, Bacardi Cocktail, Daiquiri(s), Gibson, Kir, Manhattan(s), Margarita, Martini(s), Negroni, Old Fashioned, Paradise, Rob Roy, Rose and the Whiskey Sour. It has since failed to make the cut into any of their three new main categories: The Unforgettables, Contemporary Classics and New Era Drinks. That’s a shame.

8 - The Bronx Cocktail silent movie (1912).

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