Mansions. Luxury townhouses. Love hotels. Many wouldn’t expect a trove of love hotels to exist in the suburban environs of Kowloon Tong, and yet they lie in the same neighbourhood that has long been home to celebrities and Hong Kong’s ultra-rich. These hotels are longstanding hallmarks of the neighbourhood, almost from another era with old school neon signs and architecture unchanged from the 1970’s and 80’s – but that might not be for much longer, and we may see another aspect of Hong Kong’s rich heritage disappear.
The love hotels share the streets with illustrious kindergartens and schools (as the area is a well-known school district), nursing homes, temples and bridal studios. Peppered along Cumberland, Norfolk and Kent Roads, Essex Crescent and Rutland Quadrant, these hotels are distinguished by their open gates, large driveways and signs bearing the Chinese characters 酒店 (which means ‘hotel’), a stark contrast to the gated mansions adjacent.
Perhaps it’s the innocuous location that adds to the appeal of a clandestine meeting in a love hotel. But for others the existence of love hotels in an area like Kowloon Tong is an enigma, especially since the hotels are a far cry from the garish images one might conjure of such establishments. The glowing neon signs may seem like telltale indicators of what to expect, but privacy is by no means overlooked. Take a peek in and cars line the driveways – if you were to spot a hotel guest drive in (or more likely, be driven in), a diligent guard will rush to cover the license plate with a black cloth or shroud the car.
These establishments may seem kitschy, with names like Essex Lodge or Personage Hotel, but the Kowloon Tong love hotels are not without allure. It’s far less likely to be seen in a love hotel in Kowloon Tong than in Central, for starters. Many of the love hotels, including Bruce Lee’s previous home at 41 Cumberland Road, were private residences. The conversion of these homes into love hotels is a major draw for hotel proprietors and frequent customers – affording them both more space and nicer environs, a step up from the tawdry walk-up motels in Mong Kok, Tsim Sha Tsui and Jordan.
Some, like Personage Hotel, are quite upfront about their services. We walk in on a Friday afternoon and a hostess, painting her colleague’s nails, rattles off room rates (three hours for HK$380) without even looking up. At Corinne Hotel, we’re told to come back later as “Friday from 5pm is peak hour, we’re full until 8pm!” Two other couples are told the same and flee round the corner to Essex Lodge, where the accommodating hostesses allow us to have a peek at the rooms. Others are cagier and clearly more selective of their clientele – we’re denied entry into one while a suit-clad businessman slips in.
Secluded from the main road but still close to the train station, with larger spaces and more privacy, Kowloon Tong is arguably one of the most ideal, if slightly awkward, locations for a network of love hotels in Hong Kong.
They sprung into existence during the 70’s and 80’s, catering to young couples that needed space for a rendezvous but still lived at home. Their presence is of no offence to Kowloon Tong neighbours, who are quite desensitised to them. Mr. Lam, who has lived in the area for 30 years, chuckles when asked what he thinks of them. “Everybody has needs, but not everyone has space. There are a lot of young couples that come here – they always look the most nervous. Of course, businessmen, and occasionally celebrities come, though you can never see who it is.” He resides on Kent Road, near the infamous Kent Motel. “It’s a little strange to see these children walking to school, when you know what goes on inside. But they don’t cause problems for us – noise is contained and all customers park inside – so I can’t complain.”
What is perhaps even more puzzling than this labyrinthine network of love hotels is how long they have managed to last – but this might not continue for much longer.
Houses built in Kowloon Tong previously had to comply with limitations due to the close proximity of Kai Tak airport. No longer bound by the restriction to build low-rise, property developers have honed in on the area, hungry to sell swanky residences to eager buyers looking for both space and exclusivity.
Though the area near Kowloon Tong station has seen little to no redevelopments, La Salle Road and its surrounding streets are now home to rejuvenated townhouses or large low-rise apartment complexes. La Villa de La Salle is a property that comprises four units and is currently selling one of the 10,945 square foot units for HK$550 million.
So how, in such a competitive market, have these love hotels managed to stay afloat?
The oldest of them is Essex Lodge, which has been around for 36 years. Some, like the Exotic Hotel and Romantic Hotel are chains, while others are standalones. In a city where a 2008 Durex survey found its people were the most dissatisfied with their sex lives, could it be that love hotels are nevertheless so profitable that they can sustain their large properties in such a coveted suburb?
The sale of the now defunct O Mas Hotel at 21 Cumberland Road though is a telling sign of the times ahead. The 10,000 square foot property is expected to sell for half a billion, highlighting that prices are only going up in the area. While the property hasn’t been sold or developed yet, what we can be sure of is that it’s one less love hotel – and if the trend catches on, what is to follow is the gradual disappearance of one of Kowloon Tong’s greatest attractions.
Kowloon Tong’s love hotels will always remain strange hallmarks of the area, but the fact that they are privately owned plots of lands means they can be sold. As the value on these properties continues to rise, only time will tell to see if they, like many of Hong Kong’s quirky heritage spots, will be torn down.
Words: Riva Hiranand / Photos: Raje Hiranand
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