2015-02-17



Note: This is an update of previous articles. You can read the orginals here, here and here.

In my ebook Understanding EOS I write about ways you can improve your photography without buying a new EOS camera. The unwritten premise of the ebook is that you can take better photos with the camera that you already have by learning how to take control of fuctions such as aperture, shutter speed, Picture Style and white balance. I also write about how composition and an understanding of light are just as important as technical mastery of your camera. Those things don’t change, no matter which camera you own.

However, Canon keeps releasing lovely new cameras. While you should bear in mind that you may not need a new camera (more on that below) some of you will definitely own older models and will benefit from an upgrade. This article will help you by looking at the current range of EOS cameras, and exploring some of the key differences between them.

Why do people buy new cameras?

Why do people buy new cameras in the first place? Here are some reasons that I can think of – you may come up with more:

You have an older model and would like to upgrade to a newer one.

You have a compact or mirrorless camera and would like to upgrade to a digital SLR.

You need a second camera to act as a back-up to your main one.

You’ve outgrown your current camera and would like a more advanced one.

You feel that the new features on the latest model will help you take better photos.

Your camera was lost/stolen/broken and you’re looking for a replacement.

You’ve decided that you’d like to try out photography as a hobby and need a good camera.

A gift for a family member or friend.

The Canon EOS line-up

Let’s take a look at the current EOS line-up. These are the cameras that you can buy new from the stores. Unless you want to buy a second-hand camera, these are your options (the second part of the article gives some advice on choosing your next EOS camera – just scroll down to read it).

Note: Some cameras have different names in the UK and North America. I’ve mentioned both. I’ve quoted body only (unless otherwise stated) retail prices from Wex Photographic in the UK and B&H Photo Video in the US. This is the street price – often considerably less than Canon’s recommended retail price.

Entry-level cameras

The first seven models are described as ‘entry-level’ or enthusiast models. They are the lightest, smallest and least expensive EOS cameras. Don’t let the designation ‘entry-level’ mislead you – the EOS 750D and 760D are very capable cameras that are more than good enough for many photographers:



EOS 1200D / EOS Rebel T5

February 2014 | (£259 body only / $449+tax with 18-55mm IS II kit lens)

Canon’s entry level digital SLR. Comes with an 18.0 megapixel sensor. The least dSLR expensive in the range (the EOS M is cheaper), it’s aimed photographers on a low budget. You can also download a free companion smartphone app (iOS and Android) that helps you get the most out of the camera, a first for Canon. Possible first digital SLR for someone new to photography or upgrading from a compact camera, or for a son/daughter/nephew/niece/friend that has expressed an interest in photography. It may be at the ‘bottom’ of Canon’s range but it’s still a very capable camera for someone to learn with. Anyone buying this camera is likely to outgrow it fairly soon and want a more advanced model. The body only price is insanely cheap.



EOS 600D / EOS Rebel T3i

March 2011 | (£unavailable / $499+tax)

A step up from the 1200D, the 600D seems to have been discontinued. It is still available from B&H in the United States, and from Amazon in the UK (but it isn’t stocked by Wex Photographic). Both these cameras are a great entry point to photography and much less expensive than newer models. They are genuine bargains for photographers on a tight budget.

The key differences between the EOS 600D and the 1200D are that the 600D has a vari-angle LCD screen for Live View and playing back images. It also has built-in wireless flash control (over compatible Canon Speedlite flash units).

The release of the EOS 750D and 760D makes this seem outdated by comparison. But it is still a great camera, especially for anybody on a restricted budget.

EOS 700D / EOS Rebel T5i

March 2013 | (£469 / $599+tax)

The EOS 700D is described by Canon as an upgrade to the EOD 650D and replaces that camera. There is nothing dramatically new here. The sensor is the same size (18 megapixels), it uses the same DIGIC 5 processor, the ISO range is the same and the nine point autofocus system and touchscreen menu system are virtually identical.

New features are relatively minor. The Mode Dial rotates 360°, so that you change exposure modes a little more easily. The rubberised coating on the grip is better quality. You can preview the effects of Creative Filters in Live View. The mirror stays up when switching between different Live View modes.

The EOS 700D is an ideal entry-level camera to the EOS system for photographers that want a good quality camera but don’t require the more advanced features of models like the EOS 750D, 760D, 70D, 7D Mark II or 6D. You may also consider this camera if upgrading from an older model (such as the EOS 550D or earlier). Like the EOS 600D it seems a little outdated by comparison with the newly announced EOS 750D and 760D. But still a very capable camera, especially for anybody on a tight budget.

EOS 750D / EOS Rebel T6i

February 2015 | (£599 / $749+tax)

The EOS 750D improves on the spec of its predecessor, the EOS 700D. It has a 24.2 megapixel sensor combined with Canon’s DIGIC 6 processor, promising greater resolution and better image quality than the 700D’s 18 megapixel sensor.

The autofocus has also been improved. There are 19 cross-type autofocus points, compared to nine on the 700D. This promises better tracking when shooting moving objects and more framing options when shooting still subjects.

The camera also has an Intelligent Viewfinder like the EOS 5D Mark II and 7D Mark II (although perhaps not as advanced as the viewfinders in those models, it’s difficult to tell from early reports).

The addition of Wi-fi lets you upload photos to your computer, smartphone or tablet wirelessly from the camera or control your camera with a remote release smartphone app.

As entry level cameras go this camera is very sophisticated. If you were trying to decide between the EOS 700D and this camera, the EOS 750D is the way to go if your budget permits.

EOS 760D / EOS Rebel T6s

February 2015 | (£649 / $849+tax)

The EOS 760D is a very interesting camera because it effectively splits the xxxD range into two. The 760D sits mid-way between the 750D and EOS 70D in terms of design. It is virtually the same size as the EOS 750D but has the Quick Control dial and top LCD plate of the EOS 70D. It also has an electronic level. Other than that it is virtually identical to the EOS 750D. But, thanks to the Quick Control dial, which makes dialling in exposure compensation and viewing images much quicker and easier, go for this camera over the 750D if you can afford it.

EOS 100D / EOS Rebel SL1

March 2013 | (£319 / $449+tax)

The EOS 100D is a camera that I never realised anyone needed until Canon released it. It’s easy to see who it is aimed at – photographers who want the smallest possible SLR camera. This may be someone upgrading from a compact camera or smartphone. It may also appeal to someone who travels a lot (and wants to keep the weight of their check-in luggage down) or to photographers who like to carry a camera around with them all day (believe me, I’ve tried that with my EOS 5D Mark II and it gets heavy). It should also appeal to photographers who like the size of mirrorless camera systems but prefer a digital SLR to a compact system camera.

The key selling point of the EOS 100D is that (according to Canon’s figures) it’s the smallest digital SLR around (around 80% of the size and weight of the EOS 700D). Paired with the EF 40mm f2.8 and EF-S 24mm f2.8 pancake lenses it makes a great lightweight camera system.

The spec is similar to the EOS 700D. It has an 18 megapixel sensor, a DIGIC V processor, a three inch touch screen menu (but not a vari-angle touch screen – these take up more room) and the various automatic exposure modes and creative filter options that are standard on entry level cameras. This is the second cheapest Canon EOS body after the EOS 1200D and more sophisticated than that model. A great buy for photographers on a budget or anybody who wants a small camera system.

EOS M3

February 2015 | (£599 with 18-55mm lens/ $unavailable)

The EOS M3 is similar in spec to the EOS 750D except that it has no mirror or viewfinder and is a smaller, lighter camera. It uses the EF-M mount rather than the EF-S mount, and is designed to work with the line of EF-M mount lenses that Canon is slowly expanding (you can also buy an adapter to mount EF-S and EF lenses on the camera).

The EOS M3 has a 24.3 megapixel sensor and 49 point hybrid CMOS autofocus that, according to Canon, is 6.1 times faster than the EOS M’s original autofocus system. It has a tiltable rear LCD screen and an impressive ISO range of 100-12,800. Wifi connectivity lets you upload photos directly to a computer, smartphone or tablet. It also has a Quick Control dial on the rear.

The biggest limitation of this camera is the lack of a built-in electronic viewfinder, however you can buy Canon’s EVF-DC1 (£249 / $240.86 + tax) electronic viewfinder which attaches to the camera via the hotshoe.

If you’re looking for a mirrorless / compact camera system made by Canon then this is the model for you. It also seems to have some intriguing possibilities for video, as seen in the promotional video below. Unfortunately, it is not available directly in the United States, but you can pre-order it through Digital Rev with the EF-M 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 IS STM kit lens. The price at the moment is unspecified, you can sign up to be notified when it is available.

Semi-professional cameras

The next seven models are Canon’s semi-professional camera bodies. Semi-professional is bit of a vague term – you don’t need professional aspirations to own one of these cameras, and there are professional photographers that quite happily use one or more of these models.

There’s a big difference between these cameras and the entry-level models in terms of handling and feel. The bodies are larger and heavier. Three have magnesium alloy bodies and are built to withstand a lot of wear and tear. The Quick Control dial on the back makes dialling in exposure compensation a lot easier.

EOS 70D

July 2013 | (£789/ $1099+tax)

The EOS 70D is like a larger version of the EOS 760D. Being an older camera, the megapixel count of the sensor is a little lower at 20.2 megapixels. The EOS 750D and 760D now share the same 19 cross-type autofocus point array of the 70D. All this means that there is much less difference in spec between the EOS 70D and the EOS 750D or 760D than there is with the 700D. You will definitely notice the difference in build quality and handling as this is a larger camera. Stuck between choosing the EOS 760D or 70D? Try them both out in the shops and see which one suits you best in terms of handling and ergonomics. It is possible that Canon will announce an EOS 80D camera either this year or the next. Meanwhile, this camera is excellent value for money.

EOS 7D

October 2009 | (£unavailable / $999+tax)

The EOS 7D, presumably soon to be discontinued by Canon after the launch of the EOS 7D Mark II, is still available from B&H Photo Video in the United States (but not Wex Photographic in the UK) for a very low price considering the camera’s spec. If you’re on a limited budget and looking for value for money in a Canon body then you can’t go wrong with this. While it may seem outdated compared to the EOS 7D Mark II it still boasts excellent image quality and an advanced autofocus system. However, if peak autofocus performance is essential for you then look at the EOS 7D Mark II instead.

The EOS 7D is larger and heavier and feels a lot more professional than the 70D. It has an 18 megapixel sensor, 19 autofocus points, and a continuous shooting speed of eight frames per second. This camera has the most advanced autofocus system of all the models mentioned so far (although the EOS 70D is very close). It will appeal to anyone with a serious interest in sports or wildlife photography, where autofocus performance is key to obtaining sharp images. If you’re seriously interested in either of these disciplines, and you don’t want to step up to the EOS 7D Mark II, 5D Mark III or 1D-X, then could be the model for you.

EOS 7D Mark II

September 2014 | (£1599 / $1799+tax)

The EOS 7D Mark II has a 20.2 megapixel APS-C sensor and sports a 65 point autofocus system that makes it highly capable of handling moving subjects. The APS-C sensor helps you get extra reach from your lenses compared to the full-frame alternatives the EOS 5D Mark II and 1D X. Capable of 10 fps burst speeds and with a shutter rated to 200,000 cycles this camera is aimed directly at sports and wildlife photographers. If those genres are of interest to you then the EOS 7D Mark II will definitely be on your shortlist. It also has other innovative features such as an interval timer, GPS and a digital compass.

EOS 5D Mark III

March 2012 | (£2299 / $3099+tax)

The 22.3 megapixel EOS 5D Mark III is a full-frame camera. Full-frame sensors produce images with more dynamic range and less noise at high ISOs. The 5D Mark III is used by many professional photographers thanks to its high image quality (it is also much cheaper than an EOS 1 series camera).

It has several improvements over its predecessor (the EOS 5D Mark II), including a new 61 point autofocus system (the most advanced in the Canon line-up barring the EOS 1D X), improved high ISO performance, a maximum ISO of 102,400 and dual card slots.

Until the EOS 6D (see below) went on sale it was Canon’s least expensive full-frame camera. Now the 6D offers a viable alternative for photographers whose budget doesn’t stretch to an EOS 5D Mark III.

EOS 5DS

February 2015 | (£2999 / $3699+tax)

The EOS 5Ds has a ground breaking high resolution 50.6 megapixel sensor. This figure alone tells you who it is aimed at – photographers who need to record fine detail or create large prints. In the main this is commercial and fine art photographers – this resolution far exceeds what the typical enthusiast photographer, who may print images at A3 sizes but rarely larger, requires.

This camera is intended to be used mainly for still subjects. While it shares the EOS 5D Mark III’s 61 point autofocus system, the larger file sizes restricts the shooting speed to five frames per second.  You can still use this cameras for shooting action, but don’t expect the same high performance you would get from the EOS 5D Mark III, 7D Mark II or 1D X.

The maximum ISO setting of 6400 (expandable to 12,800) also indicates that the increased number of photo sites on the sensor reduces the camera’s high ISO performance in comparison to the 5D Mark III.

EOS 5DS R

February 2015 | (£3199 / $3899+tax)

The main, indeed the only difference that I’m aware of, between this and the EOS 5DS is that the 5DS R has a low pass cancellation filter. Most websites are saying that the camera doesn’t have a low pass filter at all. This is incorrect – it has a second filter that cancels out the effect of the low pass filter, thus producing a sharper image (albeit with a greater risk of moire effect when shooting certain subjects).

Canon UK’s David Parry explains some of the new technology in the EOS 5DS and 5DS R in this video made by Wex Photographic:

Canon’s Chuck Westfall also talks about the EOS 5DS and 5DS R in this video:

Here are a couple more videos made by Canon Explorers of Light photographers about their experiences with the EOS 5Ds and 5DS R:

EOS 6D

November 2012 | (£1259 / $1799+tax)

The EOS 6D is currently Canon’s newest digital SLR and least expensive full-frame camera. It has a 20.2 megapixel sensor and a unique feature that will appeal to some photographers – built in Wi-Fi and GPS compatibility. It has the new DIGIC V processor and an 11 point autofocus system that, according to Canon, is the best in low light of any EOS camera. It is also lighter than the EOS 5D Mark III at just 770 grams (with battery and card but without a lens). This is a camera that will appeal to photographers desiring the quality of a full-frame sensor in the smallest possible body. If you require the highest-performance autofocus available, then consider the EOS 5D Mark III.

Professional cameras

The next model is the EOS 1D X – Canon’s flagship camera for professional photographers. EOS 1 series cameras are aimed at professional photographers and have price tags to match. The bodies are completely different from the other models in the EOS range. They are much bigger and heavier and come with a built-in battery grip. The weather sealing is much better and the batteries are bigger and more powerful. These cameras are designed to withstand anything that a working pro will throw at them.

EOS 1D X

April 2012 | (£4844 / $5999)

If you simply want the best camera in the EOS range, this is it. It has the most advanced autofocus (61 AF points), 12 frames per second continous shooting speed, two DIGIC 5+ processors, a maximum ISO of 204,800 and a full-frame sensor. I’ve used one and the feel is completely different to any other non-EOS 1 series camera. This is a quality camera body. Bear in mind if you’re in the market for one that you’ll get much more bang for your buck with the EOS 6D or 5D Mark III. The size and weight of the EOS 1D X are also factors which need to be considered.

How to choose a new EOS camera

Here are some of the factors to consider when buying a new EOS camera:

Budget

Budget is an important consideration, but let’s say that you could afford any camera in the range. Does that mean you should buy it? No, it doesn’t – the EOS 1D X (the most expensive EOS ) is too big and heavy for many people and you don’t need all the features that it has to take good photos. The same goes for the EOS 5D Mark III – if you intend to mainly take landscape photos at low ISO settings, then the two main selling points of the EOS 5D Mark III (fast autofocus and good high ISO performance) are redundant and you may be paying extra for features you won’t use. Features, and the way that you intend to use the camera, are just as important as price.

Do you really need to upgrade?

It’s easy to believe that you need to upgrade your camera when you really don’t. For example, I own an EOS 5D Mark II and it’s tempting to buy a 5D Mark III, but the reality is I don’t need one. It won’t earn me any more money, and I don’t require the more advanced autofocus or better high ISO performance (they may be useful, but I don’t need them).

I’m a freelance writer, and I look at it from a business point of view. Someone told me once that he never buys a piece of equipment for his business unless he knows that it will pay for itself within a year. It was a different type of business (a photography shop/printing service) but I think it’s excellent advice. If you’re buying something for a business the relevant questions are do you really need it (will it make your job easier or mean that you are less likely to miss a crucial shot) and how quickly will it pay for itself?

Also bear in mind that if photography is a business, even a part-time one, a new camera is a business expense and it will save you some money on your tax bill. When a photographer you follow online raves about the latest camera they bought, remember that:

a. They get a tax break when they buy it which is like buying it at a discount.

b. That the camera is a tool that helps them make a living, so they need a good quality camera body, and that they probably expect it to pay for itself reasonably quickly.

c. Some photographers get pre-production models from Canon to use in return for writing about them on their websites.

Which new features do you need?

So, what are good reasons to upgrade? If you own an older EOS camera, such as a 300D or 10D, then you can probably think of plenty. Newer models have better sensors with more megapixels, better image quality, less noise (especially at high ISOs), a greater ISO range, better autofocus, bigger and better LCD screens, Live View, better menu layouts plus a host of smaller features that you don’t appreciate until you get to use them. If you own any EOS camera that predates the models in the list above you may want to upgrade to take advantage of the newest features.

But what if you don’t feel you need any of the features that a newer camera has, but you really want to do something that improves your photography? Or you may have a relatively new camera, such as the EOS 450D or 500D, and be wondering if upgrading will help you take better photos. The key is to understand that a newer camera doesn’t necessarily make you a better photographer – it’s a tool to help. Maybe the newer cameras have some tools that will help you, and maybe they don’t. It depends on what type of photos you take.

Here are some examples of how relatively new features can help you take better photos:

Live View

I use Live View for accurate focusing with macro and close-up photography, and for long exposure photography as it gives me a clear view of the scene even with a neutral density filter on the lens. If you have a camera that predates Live View, then upgrading to one that has it may help you take better photos in similar circumstances.

Autofocus

If you have a camera with nine-point autofocus, and you like to take action, sports or wildlife photos and your camera’s autofocus is letting you down, then upgrading to a camera with a better autofocus system will help you take better photos.

There’s a lot of talk on the internet about switching to Nikon for better autofocus performance. But from all accounts (I’m not a sports or wildlife photographer so I’m not an expert on high performance autofocus) the autofocus systems on the EOS 7D Mark II and 1D Mark IV work really well, and the new autofocus system on the EOS 5D Mark III and 1D X looks like it will perform even better. I don’t see any reason to switch brands with these cameras available, especially if you are heavily invested in lenses and other accessories.

Do you really need autofocus? It may seem like a silly question but if you take a lot of landscape photos then you may not even use autofocus much. It’s much easier to focus manually, especially if you are focusing on the hyperfocal distance.

Exposure compensation

Newer EOS cameras have a 10 stop exposure compensation range (+/- 5 stops). If you’re into HDR (High Dynamic Range) photography, this can help you take photos with a wide exposure range.

Aspect ratios

If you like to experiment with different aspect ratios (ie 4:3, square or panoramic formats) some of the newer models can display a cropped image feed in Live View so that you don’t have to guess with the framing.

Does size matter?

I’m talking camera body size (and weight) here – the lighter bodies of the 1200D, 100D and 700D are great if you want to travel as lightly as possible. Some people may find these bodies a bit too small to handle comfortably and that a larger body may suits them better. If you’re going to do a lot of outdoor photography, you may also need the extra weatherproofing and more solid construction of the heavier camera bodies.

Full-frame or APS-C?

How important is image quality to you? Full frame sensors give better image quality, but they are more expensive – a full-frame sensor costs more to manufacture than a smaller one. I also like full frame because it means that wide-angle lenses retain their ‘true’ focal length.

However, some people will appreciate the crop factor of APS-C cameras as it gives their telephoto lenses extra ‘reach’. Budget also plays a part here – the EOS 6D is the least expensive full-frame camera in the range at the moment.

If you are thinking of upgrading to a full-frame camera, do you own any EF-S lenses? These are designed for APS-C cameras and don’t work with full-frame cameras.

Do you want to make large prints?

If you want to make large prints (or take photos with a view to selling them on stock photography websites like Alamy) then you need a camera with more megapixels. This is less of a consideration than it was in the past as most of the current range have an 18 megapixel or greater sensor – but it may be a consideration if you have an older body with a 12 megapixel or smaller sensor. The EOS 5DS and 5DS R will interest photographers who make large prints or use medium format cameras for commercial or personal work.

Do you need movie mode?

If movie mode is important to you then you examine the options on each camera carefully as each is different. Movie mode is evolving with each new camera and the EOS 5D Mark III, EOS 70D and EOS 7D Mark IIhave the most advanced versions. Expect to see further improvements on future models.

What are your future plans?

It may be tempting to buy a cheaper digital SLR model now, only to regret it in a couple of years time and want to buy a more advanced model. But also you need to think about accessories and lenses you may need to buy. You’ll probably do your photography more good by buying a cheaper body for the moment and buying some decent lenses for it over the next few years, rather than spending so much on the body you have no cash left over for new lenses. Some of these questions are difficult to answer now, especially if you’re starting out, but you should at least consider them.

Alternatives to buying a new camera

If the question is how can I improve my photography, then what can you spend money on that will help you do that other than a new camera body?

One answer is a good lens or two.

Another is to go on a workshop with a photographer that you admire. Many photographers run workshops.

For example, take a look at the Bruce Percy’s workshops. I don’t know him, I just admire his photos – but I’m sure that I’d learn a lot more from going on one of his workshops than I would from buying a new camera body.

Cheaper than workshops, and probably the best bang for your buck when it comes to education, are books, eBooks and magazines. You’ll really learn a lot from allocating a few hundred pounds (or dollars) to spend on written material dealing with the areas of photography that you’re interested.

If you’re interested in eBooks, then take a look at my photography eBooks. I sell eleven on this website and I’ve written nine for Craft & Vision.

Then there’s EOS magazine, the most in-depth publication for EOS users around. It’s dedicated to helping you get the most out of your EOS camera and I think it’s brilliant – but then I’m biased as used to be the Technical Editor. Take a look, there are both print and digital subscriptions options.

Another option is to go away somewhere and dedicate the trip completely to photography. A week away doesn’t have to be incredibly expensive, and for the price of an EOS 5D Mark III body you can do some serious travelling, especially if you go somewhere relatively inexpensive (like South America or south-east Asia).

More information

You may well need more information than I can include in this article to make your decision. There isn’t enough space here to go into all the differences between models – I can only touch on a few that I think matter to most people. So where can you find out more?

DPReview has the most in-depth reviews that I’ve seen. Each review lists the spec of the camera, making it easy to compare models. You will learn a lot about any potential purchase by reading about it on DPReview first.

You can also search online for reviews written by photographers who have bought the cameras. My article about the EOS 5D Mark III lists the best reviews that I’ve found at the bottom.

Oh, and did I mention EOS magazine? We write about each new camera as it comes out.

Do you have a friend who owns one a camera that you’re considering? Ask them what they think. Another good option is to join the EOS magazine forum and ask the opinion of other EOS owners. With over 6,000 members there is bound to be someone who can help.

Go to your local camera shop and try out the models. The difference in build quality between the EOS 700D and 70D, for example, is hard to pin down from the specs if you’re not familiar with either one – but is immediately obvious when you try them out.

Hire a camera for a few days before committing to a purchase. If this facility is available in your area, it’s a great way to test a camera before buying it.

Conclusion

Whichever model you decide to buy, or whether you stay with the camera you already own, it’s good to remember that photography is a wonderful and enjoyable hobby, no matter which camera you own. The most important thing is to have fun and make some beautiful images.

Further reading

These articles will give you more information about the Canon EOS system. My EOS autofocus series goes into the autofocus systems of some of the above cameras in much more detail:

My detailed review of the EOS 5D Mark III

Canon Speedlite Buyer’s Guide – You’ve bought a new EOS camera, now you want to buy a flash unit to go with it. This article explores the current range of Canon Speedlite units.

EOS Autofocus series

Understanding EOS Autofocus: The EOS 70D

Understanding EOS Autofocus: The EOS 1D Mark IV

Understanding EOS Autofocus: The EOS 5D Mark III and EOS 1D X

Understanding EOS Autofocus: The EOS 7D

Understanding EOS

My ebook Understanding EOS is the perfect guide for anybody who wants to learn how to get the best out of their EOS camera. Click the link to learn more, and see the other ebooks in the Understanding EOS series.

The post How to Choose Your Next EOS Camera (early 2015) appeared first on The Andrew S. Gibson photography blog.

Show more