Over the years, the Boston-area dining scene has morphed into one that is both thriving and dynamic. But it wasn’t always that way.
Back in the early 1980's, a high-priced menu and a formal dining environment were equivalent to a first-class restaurant experience. As Gordon and Fiona Hamersley have pointed out, our restaurant "hot spots" were places like The old Ritz, the Parker House, Locke-Ober, Maison Robert, and Cafe Budapest. All fancy, pricey and, if you ask us, a tad stodgy.
That isn’t so true nowadays.
Like the tech mafia of a successful startup, this chef mafia went on from East Coast Grill and managed to innovate and change Boston's restaurant landscape for good.[/pullquote]
East Coast Grill, which opened in 1985, was one of a few local restaurants that managed to change the course of Boston’s dining future. The chef-owned restaurant showed diners they could eat high-quality, affordable fare in an uncomplicated environment. The Inman Square restaurant, known for its spicy, grilled fare and "Hell Nights," also served as a launching pad for some of Boston’s most successful culinary talents. Like the tech mafia of a successful startup, this chef mafia went on from East Coast Grill and managed to innovate and change Boston's restaurant landscape for good.
Here are eight members of the East Coast Grill mafia who went on to make their own impact in the community. These former ECG employees all hail from the restaurant’s early days, so stay tuned for the East Coast Grill Mafia Part Two, a list of its more recent alumni who’ve also left their mark on our city’s burgeoning restaurant scene.
The Godfather
Chris Schlesinger
Thirty years ago, Chris Schlesinger, along with partner Cary Wheaton, opened East Coast Grill in Cambridge’s Inman Square neighborhood. Within a short amount of time, the local restaurant gained national attention for its high-quality, inexpensive fare. But Schlesinger wasn’t your typical businessman. The Virginia native and college dropout managed to revolutionize the Boston area’s dining scene with his barbecue talents and spicy cuisine. The New York Times even credited his restaurant and its "no-nonsense dining" appeal with "bringing the Boston restaurant scene to life."
Schlesinger went on to open several other restaurants, including Jake and Earl’s Dixie BBQ, The Blue Room and The Back Eddy Restaurant in Westport.
In 2012, Schlesinger sold the East Coast Grill to Jason Heard (executive chef), Robin Greenspan (general manager) and James Lozano (general manager and line cook). He has published numerous cookbooks and has been featured in hundreds of magazines and newspapers including The New York Times, Food & Wine and more. Schlesinger was also a recipient of the a 1996 James Beard Award, “Best Chef Northeast." We tried to reach him for this story, but couldn't. Instead, we relied on testimony from many of those who worked with him.
In addition to advancing Greater Boston's dining landscape, Schlesinger also had a hand in advancing numerous local restaurant talents – many of whom are now well-known chefs and restaurant owners themselves. After speaking with many of these folks, it was apparent that their boss and mentor, Schlesinger, had quite the influence over their future culinary careers. Here's a look at a few other familiar faces who got their start at East Coast Grill.
Front of the House All Stars
Nick Zappia
Upon moving to Boston in 1991, Nick Zappia took a position as manager of East Coast Grill. During this time, Schlesinger was in the process of opening a new restaurant, The Blue Room, in the Kendall Square neighborhood. Zappia became an integral part of getting the new restaurant off the ground and later became general manager of both East Coast Grill and The Blue Room.
When Schlesinger decided to sell The Blue Room in 1995, Zappia jumped at the opportunity – partnering with Chef Steve Johnson to purchase the restaurant in 1996. "I would never have owned The Blue Room if not for Chris," Zappia tells BostInno. "He even helped me finance the space, it really wouldn’t have been possible without him. Chris is a devious individual in the best way possible – he always challenged us to push ourselves to do better and was quick to keep us in our places when we lost focus. He is truly inspirational.”
Zappia now owns The Blue Room, Belly Wine Bar and Central Bottle Wine + Provisions with his wife and partner, Liz Vilardi.
Maureen Rubino
Zappia also founded the Central Bottle wine store with his longtime friend and colleague, Maureen Rubino. The two go way back. In fact, during the 1990's, Rubino worked with Zappia at East Coast Grill before becoming general manager in 1996. She remained general manager of ECG for nearly a decade. Then, in 2009, Maureen and Dave Rubino teamed up with Vilardi and Zappia to open a wine shop, Central Bottle Wine + Provisions. The Cambridge wine shop was an instant hit due to its weekly wine tastings and events. We've been told by Central Bottle, though, that Rubino is no longer with the store.
Patrick Sullivan
You can thank East Coast Grill alumnus Patrick Sullivan for helping bring proper cocktails to Boston. The bartender, who began working at ECG in 1996, later purchased the Windsor Tap in 1998 with ECG chef Jeff Unger. Together, the two alumni transformed the bar into Inman Square’s legendary B-Side Lounge (what is now Lord Hobo). The cocktail lounge, which boasted one of the most comprehensive drink menus in Greater Boston, is often credited for elevating the Hub's drink scene. Over the years, Sullivan continued to be "at the forefront of Boston's cocktail renaissance," as Grub Street points out.
In 2008, Sullivan closed the B-Side Lounge and went on to become Director of Bar Operations at Legal Sea Foods. In 2011, he transitioned into a part time role at Legal Sea Foods while opening the popular Cambridge bar, Brick & Mortar, with Misty Kalkofen. Sullivan is now back full-time with Legal Sea Foods, helping with their expansion efforts.
The Chef Spin-Offs
Steve Johnson
For two years, Johnson worked alongside Chris Schlesinger in ECG's kitchen, which proved a solid launching pad for the chef's burgeoning career. Johnson went on to become chef and owner of The Blue Room in Central Square with partner Nick Zappia. And in 2001 Johnson was nominated for the James Beard Foundation award for "Best Chef in the Northeast."
In 2005, Johnson set out on his own, opening the Central Square fixture, Rendezvous. The restaurant remained opened for nine years and was one of the most well-regarded eateries in the Hub before shutting its doors last year. After closing Rendezvous in 2014 (now replaced by Viale), Johnson moved to Tiverton, R.I., to open The Red Dory, a Mediterranean-style restaurant.
Paul O'Connell
"On a cold night in December of 1992, I had one of the most important meals of my life at the East Coast Grill."[/pullquote]
Paul O’Connell also worked as sous chef alongside Schlesinger at East Coast Grill. The chef recounts his time at the restaurant on Gastronomica.org, stating: “Chris Schlesinger encouraged me to experiment and gave me the opportunity to put what I liked on the menu. I spent a lot of time reading and trying new techniques, from Colombian arepas to El Salvadorean papusas made with the help of native immigrants who worked with me in the kitchen.”
Chef O'Connell is most well-known for his popular (now-shuttered) restaurant, Chez Henri. The Cambridge restaurant, which served French and Cuban cuisine, remained open for 19 years, before closing in November 2013. But you can still experience the chef’s famous “Cubano sandwich” at pop-ups happening throughout the city. Most recently, O’Connell hosted a pop-up event at Abigails in Kendall Square.
Andy Husbands
After moving to Boston, Seattle native Andy Husbands took a job as sous chef at the East Coast Grill in 1992 and, just like the others, worked under Schlesinger. "Working at the East Coast Grill for Chef Schlesinger was a game changer for me," Husbands tells BostInno. "I saw how you could work hard, in a creative and fun environment that was respectful and challenging."
Husbands is now the chef and owner of Tremont 647 and Sister Sorel in Boston’s South End neighborhood.
In 2009, he gained plenty of national attention when he competed on Fox TV’s “Hell’s Kitchen” hosted by Gordon Ramsay. Husbands has written several successful cookbooks including Wicked Good Burgers, Wicked Good BBQ and The Fearless Chef.
Ken Goodman
Classically trained chef Ken Goodman also spent time at East Coast Grill during his 20 years in the restaurant industry. From 1993 to 1994, he worked as sous chef at ECG – and then, from 1994 to 1996, as executive chef.
"On a cold night in December of 1992, I had one of the most important meals of my life at the East Coast Grill," Goodman tells BostInno. "The food was boldly flavored and delicious, the drinks were playful and inventive and the service was genuinely friendly... And so a few months later, I put on my employees-only pork shirt and joined the team. As it turned out, those next 3 years at the East Coast Grill would help to define the person that I am today. In my 20 year career as a chef, it was the best job that I ever had."
The ECG alumnus is now busy working on the other side of the lens as the founder of Ken Goodman Photography in New York City. Goodman’s photos have appeared in a multitude of publications like Rolling Stone, The Wall Street Journal, Hamptons, Edible, Gotham, Serendipity and Art Culinaire.
Goodman, a renowned photographer of food, chefs and celebrity events, photographed Husbands' cookbook Wicked Good Barbecue.
The East Coast Grill Backbone
These three, long-term employees were with the restaurant when it first opened and are still there today. Their cooking styles and front-of-the-house skills had a profound impact on the aforementioned mafia members.
Elmer Sanchez and Amira Buruca – The two cooks have been described as the crux of East Coast Grill’s history and have been cooking in the restaurant’s kitchen for almost 30 years.
Tina Wolpert – The long-time server began working at East Coast Grill the first week it opened and is still there today.
Featured photo courtesy of East Coast Grill; Photo of Chris Schlesinger courtesy of Tippingpoint Labs; Photo of Nick Zappia courtesy of The Blue Room; Photo of Maureen Rubino courtesy of centralbottle.com; Photo of Patrick Sullivan courtesy of Legal Sea Foods; Photo of Steve Johnson courtesy of Susan Young Photography; Photo of Andy Husbands courtesy of Andy Husbands.