As I sit in the passenger seat on the way to the airport, I think to myself how it is exactly ten years to the date exact of my first trip to the continent of Africa. I visited Africa a few times after my first visit but this visit was extra special. On this journey, I was headed to Africa for both leisure and my business, Away to Africa, to explore some of Africa’s history. The joys of my trip were only a plane ride away yet anxiety happened to tag along for free on the ride to the airport.
Perhaps I should back up a little. My name is Tiffanie Anderson and I am an attorney, professor, event coordinator but most importantly I am a business owner. The idea to start Away to Africa initiated after I participated in a law school study abroad program to Cape Town, South Africa. Immediately upon my arrival back to New York I began telling all my friends of this captivating experience to the Mother City, Cape Town. I boasted of the beauty of Africa and our people of Africa, yes our people, as we are all Africans. Some people thought I was crazy but most people wanted to hear my stories. After providing details about each day of my trip I was able to convince a couple of friends to visit Africa. One friend secured a job in Rwanda and another friend visited Ghana and fell in love, vowing to return every year. It was at this time that I decided to start Away to Africa.
During my last expedition to Africa I stopped in three countries, Ethiopia, South Africa and Ghana. I was excited to visit all of these countries but I was most excited about exploring the Holy Land of Ethiopia. Upon my arrival to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia I was greeted by my Sistren who took me to my lodging for some Ethiopian Harrar coffee and Genfo (Ethiopian porridge). After resting for a bit we set out to Entoto Hills, to visit Entoto Maryam Church and Emperor Menelik and Empress Taitu Palace. What an amazing first stop. The views overlooking the mountains of Addis Ababa served as the best welcome I could ever receive in Ethiopia.
After departing Entoto we head to the National Museum of Ethiopia where I am able to view the royal garments of Emperor Haile Selassie and Empress Menen. Viewing the crowns, jewels and regal possessions of the Royal Family forced me to question…why were these facts left out of our history books? I would keep this question at the forefront of my mind during my entire voyage throughout Ethiopia.
I meet with some friends at a traditional restaurant. It is currently Fasting Season so we all eat Beyeayenetu (Traditional Ethiopian fasting food) and injera bread and some of us partake in sipping some honey wine. I decided to take it in early as I had an early flight the next morning to Axum.
I arrive to Axum the next and the first thing I noticed once arriving into town are the beautiful Jacaranda trees. I was informed that these trees were presented to Emperor Selassie I as a gift from South Africa. The bright red flowers of the Jacaranda trees decorated the streets of Axum and again provided a warm welcome to the beautiful country of Ethiopia. After checking into my hotel I start my day of learning the true history of Axum, Ethiopia. I meet with my local tour guide and he surprises me with his youthful appearance yet ageless knowledge of the city. He narrates detailed stories about the 1,700 old Obelisk of Axum and takes me to one of the most holy places to date, The Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion and The Treasury of the Ark of the Covenant. There are many stories about where The Treasury of the Ark of the Covenant is housed and how King Menelik brought the Ark of the Covenant to Ethiopia. The fact is no one is allowed inside The Treasury of the Ark of the Covenant except the highest priest of Ethiopia so no one can attest to the truth of the location. Next our local tour guide takes me to the location of Queen of Sheba’s bath and recounts of Queen of Sheba’s dynasty and how the Queen of Sheba met with King of Solomon and became impregnated with Emperor Menelik.
The next morning I fly to Lalibela and this is hands down my favorite city in Ethiopia. After settling into my hotel and eating the best Beyeayenetu in all of Ethiopia, I head to the rock hewn churches of Lalibela. Listed as the Eighth Wonder of the World and a UNESECO World Heritage site, Lalibela’s rock hewn churches are a site that I recommend for everyone to view with their own eyes. The churches were excavated during the reign of Negus (King) Gebre Mesqel Lalibela and it is said that Negus Lalibela was visited by an angel who directed Lalibela to build 11 monolithic churches, men working in the day and the angels working at night. After viewing these churches I truly believe this story as the churches stand as a perfect structure tilting at a perfect 45 degree angle, the same angle in which the Earth tilts.
As I enter each church I remove my shoes and cover my hair with a scarf. I searched for open spaces between the throw rugs on the floor so that I could place my bare feet on the cold 12th century rock floors. For the first time in a long time I felt content. I breathed in the aroma of burning incense and began praying. As I looked around on the walls of the churches I noticed something different, yet intriguing. The faces of Mary and Jesus had brown faces. I mean these were paintings depicting a Black Holy family… we will get back to this later as I did not ask any questions just yet about the skin color. I received my blessings as the priest touched my forehead with the Lalibela cross and said a prayer over me. I left the churches renewed in spirit and in strength. [RIGHT: Lalibela. Photo credit: Abrham Tsegaye]
For dinner I went to a restaurant named Old Abyssinia (Abyssinia is the original name of Ethiopia) that overlooked the mountains of Lalibela. The view was priceless. I danced with a young Ethiopian singer as he showed me how to use my shoulders to catch the rhythm of the music. The traditional dance called ‘Eskista’ left me tired and ready for bed to prepare for my next day in Lalibela.
My next day in Lalibela, although short was just as memorable. I drove for almost 20 minutes up the mountain and then was guided by foot to ‘The Roof of Africa.’ This is the second highest place in all of Africa and again left me speechless. As I went inside a small monastery on the mountain to pray I was told I was in the exact same place that Selassie I came to pray during Mussolini’s second attempt to invade Ethiopia. Instead of reading history, I was now living it. I received another blessing from the priest and promised on my next visit I would bring solar powered lights for the monastery so the worshippers could have light during their early morning prayers.
My next stop was in Gondar where I viewed the Gondar castles and then I drove a few hours in Bahir Dar. In Bahir Dar I took an hour boat ride on Lake Tana to view the Kidane Mihret Monastery which was circular in shape and divided into three sections, representing the holy trinity. As I literally read the paintings on the wall my tour guide narrated the many biblical stories of the bible that were painted on the walls. Again, I wondered how come some paintings had white faces of Mary and Jesus and how come others had brown faces. I was informed that prior to the 12th century the paintings in Ethiopia depicted African features hence the brown faces but after Portuguese painters inhabited Ethiopia they began influencing the paintings throughout Ethiopia. I say influence because although the skin color became lighter, the coils on the heads remained the same, representing the existence of Africans in the Bible. For many years we were taught as students growing up in America that our lineage traced back to our slave owner. What I loved most about Ethiopia was the apparent history lessons that were never taught. I was a daughter of Kings and Queens. I vanished the ‘His story’ lessons of me being a child of a slave and left the monastery as a proud daughter of a King and Queen of Africa. As I embrace another city, I take away another history lesson. I head back to Addis and prepare for me trip to Shashamane in the morning.
[LEFT: Gondar. Photo credit: Abrham Tsegaye]
For years I was told various stories of Shashamane, how this was land set aside for Rastafarians, how I shouldn’t go, how I should go and never leave…the stories were endless, so I decided to visit and obtain my own opinion. As we drove from Addis Ababa to Shashamane we passed strawberry fields and endless terrains of mountainous landscapes. The modern and traditional world made amends as we watch countless cars maneuver but mainly make frequent stops for cattle constantly crossing the road. About an hour and a half outside of Shashamane we stopped on the lake at a friend’s house and ate breakfast as I relaxed in a hammock overlooking the water trying to make sense of this amazing trip.
We continued to Shashamane and I was delighted with the city. I expected to see many Rastafarians in Ethiopia but met only a few, however in Shashamane the city was filled with proud Rastas. With the lead of my Sistren I was able to meet a few elders in the community and visited the original Twelve Tribes of Israel. I learned that Shashamane was land set aside by Emperor Selassie I for all Pan Africans wanting to visit and stay in Ethiopia because of Kwame Nkrumah’s and others support of the great land. Visiting Shashamane was a perfect way to wrap up my trip to Ethiopia.
After exploring Ethiopia, I understand why people refer to Ethiopia as the chosen or holy land. To stand as the only country on the continent of Africa to resist colonization, is one of the many accomplishments of the Ethiopia. Ethiopians are a very proud people as you experience authentic culture of Ethiopia. There are no watered down substitutions of colonial traditions…Ethiopia is the true gateway to a piece of Africa’s history.
[END OF PART ONE]
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