Escape for a few days and discover Oman’s rich history, culture and nature in the country’s capital
Neighbouring Oman has been billed as the Middle East’s best kept secret – and Muscat is at the heart of it.
You won’t find shiny skyscrapers here. In stark contrast to other countries in the region, Muscat’s skyline reflects its history, thanks to architectural guidelines that restrict the colour and height of new buildings. The result is an aesthetically charming capital complemented by humble people who are proudly holding onto their heritage.
Getting around Muscat is easy. There’s basically one main road, Sultan Al Qaboos Street, that runs from the airport through the city.
Where to go
Best for culture vultures
The most obvious and popular attraction in Muscat is the stunning Sultan Al Qaboos Grand Mosque, slightly more low key than Abu Dhabi’s iconic mosque yet just as impressive with its huge Swarovski chandelier, blue tiled interiors and the world’s second largest handmade carpet (after Abu Dhabi’s, of course).
The mosque is open to visitors from 9am-11am every day except Friday. Be sure to dress appropriately – men cannot wear shorts and women should have their legs, arms and hair covered. Take your own scarf to cover your hair as they don’t have any for you to borrow. Information: sultanqaboosgrandmosque.com
The Royal Opera House plays host to various performances throughout the year – although it takes a break during the summer months. If you visit between September and May, be sure to take a look at the upcoming schedule of concerts, which vary from Irani folk to opera. Contact: www.rohmuscat.org
If you head to the coast and turn east, you’ll find Muscat’s Corniche, which is an attraction in itself. As you stroll along the coastal road you’ll find the edge of Muttrah Souk on one side and the port on the other. If you don’t fancy walking, hitch a ride from O’Bike, a self-service bicycle system similar to Abu Dhabi’s ADCB Bikeshare. You can pick one up near the fountains opposite Al Riyam Park on the east end of the Corniche.
In Muttrah Souk you can find everything from clothing and Omani daggers to touristy souvenirs. Just walking through the market is
an experience in itself – but if you do stop to grab up a souveneir or two, be sure to bargain.
Just like Abu Dhabi, Muscat has a port on the west of its Corniche where there’s a fish souk that’s popular with residents and tourists looking for a fresh catch. Go early in the morning … but be warned: the smell is overwhelming.
Further east is Muscat proper, also known as Old Muscat, which feels like a small, sleepy town. As you enter Old Muscat you’ll pass through Muscat Gate which has a museum above it that contains displays of Omani history.
In this area is the Bait Al Zubair Museum, a private museum that was once a family house. The core comprises four separate buildings, which showcase the Al Zubair family’s private collection of Omani artefacts, as well as modern art and a replica of a traditional Omani house. There’s also a theatre, café and gift shop. Entrance OR 2 per person. Contact: +968 24 736 688 www.baitalzubairmuseum.com
Across the road is a charming green antique Omani door. Step through it into the Bait Muzna Gallery and you’ll find a modern art gallery that houses a range of work from photography to sculptures – and it’s bigger than it looks from the outside. Free entry. Contact: www.baitmuznagallery.com
Old Muscat is also home to the ruling sultan who resides in Al Alam Palace, which makes for a nice photo opp.
The whole area is pedestrian-friendly, so you could easily wile away the afternoon walking around and visiting the museums.
Incidentally, Oman’s Ministry of Tourism is great at communicating its monthly schedule of events and you can pick up a brochure at various tourist spots and hotels.
Back to nature
Outside of Muscat proper you enter coastal territory. Marina Bandar Al-Rowdha offers various excursions where you can hit the water for a spot of dolphin watching – and sightings are almost guaranteed in Oman. There’s a semi-submersible submarine tour by Al-Khayran, which allows you to sit two metres below the water to get a better view while out cruising. Marassi Al Jissah hosts fishing, dolphin-watching and snorkelling tours from the marina. Contact: +968 24 737 7286 www.marinaoman.net
Coral Ocean Tours offers snorkelling excursions, sunset cruises, private yacht charters, fishing trips and coastal, island and dolphin-watching tours. Contact: +968 94 110 088 www.coraloceantours.com
Similarly, Sidab Sea Tours offers a host of trips incluing dolphin-watching, snorkelling, coastal tours, game fishing, sunset tours and an Omani dhow cruise. Contact: +968 24 736 791 www.sidabseatours.com
Divers will have plenty of underwater wildlife to discover. Oman Dive Center – which oddly enough is actually a resort with air-conditioned huts on the beach – operates dive trips to 20 different sites ranging from 9m to 15m. Not certified yet? The center teaches courses from PADI, the Professional Association of Diving Instructors. Contact: +968 24 824 240 www.omandivecentre.com
If you’ve got a family in tow and the kids need to let off steam, there are plenty of parks in Muscat that are frequented by families in the evenings and on weekends.
Al Qurm Park is off Sultan Qaboos Street. It features a modern playground, loads of lawn areas for picnicking, a giant lake, horses and Marah Land theme park. There are a couple of refreshment stands at the main entrance but we recommend taking a picnic for the evening. Entrance is free.
Another popular spot is Riyam Park, which is nestled in the mountains on the Corniche. A giant incense burner sits atop a hill high above the park, which is filled with the sounds of screaming children enjoying the fairground rides. If bumper cars and revolving swings aren’t your thing, don’t worry – there’s a separate area that’s quieter for you to spread out a picnic blanket or kick a ball around. There are toilets and a coffee shop and again entrance is free.
Where to eat
Oman’s selection of dining outlets is similar to that of Abu Dhabi: there’s a mix of backstreet Indian cafeterias, Arabic shisha cafes and modern international restaurants.
If you want to mix with locals, head to Kargeen Caffee, an eclectic restaurant that spans across various small buildings with gardens, courtyards and an old horse-drawn cart in between. It has an expansive menu – about 15 pages with soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, pizza, pasta and shawarma – so you won’t be short of options. Al Bashair Street, Madinat Qaboos. Contact: +968 24 699 055 www.kargeencaffe.com
In the same complex you’ll find a cute café and patisserie called The Crafty Kitchen, which has the feeling of an English tea lounge with a Parisian flair. You can choose simple sandwiches and healthy salads from the counter as well as homemade cakes, pastries and a selection of tea from all over the world. They also host afternoon tea and cooking classes. Contact: +968 24 696 660 www.thecraftykitchen.com
On a cool summer evening, we recommend sitting by the seaside at Marina Bandar Al-Rowdha. The licensed Blue Marlin Restaurant – and blue it is, from floor to ceiling– serves great grilled seafood. Contact: +968 24 737 286
www.marinaoman.net
If you’re strolling along the corniche in Muttrah, you have to stop for a samosa or two. Just down from the main entrance to Muttrah Souk is a window in a kitchen with a display of samosas. They’re cheap and cheerful – but better than they look.
Where to stay
Muscat suffers no shortage of accommodation options, whether you’re looking for something smack dab in the heart of the city or something further afield.
City Seasons Muscat is a brilliant downtown option. The 334-room hotel is modern, clean and comfortable with friendly staff. It’s generally considered more of a business hotel but if you want to base yourself in the city, this hotel is perfect. There are a range of room options including deluxe rooms, suites and apartments.
You’ll enjoy all the usual amenities including free wifi and tea and coffee-making facilities. The Lebanese restaurant, Raouche, is popular with residents and guests for a simple meal of mezze and mixed grills. The buffet breakfast in Seasons Restaurant won’t leave you wanting for much as there’s a generous spread of hot and cold breakfast items to fuel you up for a day of sightseeing.
The weekend package starts at OR 60 including buffet breakfast and Friday brunch or dinner.
Contact: +968 24 394 800
www.cityseasonshotels.com
On the other end of the scale is the stunning Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa, which has quite the reputation – and not just because of its beautiful location on a bay in front of rugged mountains.
The resort comprises three separate hotels: Al Husn, Al Bandar and the family-oriented Al Waha. The three properties share 600 metres of coastline, off which you can snorkel with turtles, enjoy watersports or just soak up the sun.
Each hotel is distinctly different. Al Husn, which is considered the more romantic (and pricier) option, is inspired by Omani architecture. It has 180 rooms and suites, all of which boast sea views, a balcony or terrace, and butler service.
The 198-room Al Bandar is at the heart of the resort and boasts eight of the resort’s dining outlets and the main swimming pool. Each room or suite has a balcony or terrace and views of the garden, sea or swimming pool.
Al Waha is great for families as it has a Cool Zone kids’ club, a main swimming pool and separate one for toddlers and kids as well as babysitting facilities.
Guests at all three hotels can enjoy the facilities including a lazy river, a mini Omani souk, watersports, tennis, camel and horse riding and the serene Chi Spa. There’s also a dedicated turtle ranger at the property who can call you when a nest is hatching or speak with you about the local species. The resort also has a dive centre where you can become certified or head out to
a nearby dive site.
While at the hotel you can choose from any of the 22 food and beverage outlets including our favourite, the Italian restaurant, Capri Court.
Rates start at AED 765++.
Contact: +968 24 776 262 www.shangri-la.com/muscat/barraljissahresort
WORDS Rachael Perrett