2015-11-23


PLUS WIN a Salon Day for you and your bestie from Organic Colour Systems worth R2000! Scroll down for details.

As a beauty writer I’m asked to try all kinds of stuff on my skin and hair, and all the chemicals I’m exposed to aren’t necessarily good for me. Recently I chatted to Karen Fox from Organic Colour Systems and GojiSpa, and I was quite horrified to hear about all the dangers associated with traditional hair colouring products, one being cancer. My hairdresser and I were both putting our health at risk!

Luckily there are safer alternatives. While having an Organic Color Systems treatment at GojiSpa, a natural health and beauty Spa in Willowbridge, Cape Town,  Karen explained the dangers of traditional chemical hair colors to me.  I also used the opportunity to ask her a few questions: I asked Karen to explain the dangers of traditional hair colour and the benefits of going natural. Plus I tried out one of their hair treatments for myself.

Why is standard hair colour potentially dangerous?

Karen explained that most commercial and professional hair colour contains high amounts of ammonia as well as PPD’s (p-phenylenediamine) and PTD’s (1,4-toluenediamine) which are cause for concern.

“Ammonia fumes are detrimental to your health and high concentrations can actually damage your hair,” says Karen. Ammonia damages tyrosine, a protein in the hair that regulates melanin, you hair’s natural colour pigment. When this happens your hair can’t hold either its natural and any artificial color, leading to colour fade. Ammonia also weakens both the sebaceous glands and hair follicles in the scalp, leading to brittle, thinning hair.

PPD’s and PTD’s can cause sensitivity, and continuous exposure can lead to allergies and increase your risk of developing certain cancers.

Several studies have linked prolonged exposure to PPD hair dyes to an increased risk of bladder cancer. According to a 2001 study, women who used permanent hair dyes once a month or more as well as hairdressers and barbers who have been in the industry for more than 10 years were particularly at risk.

So my hairdresser and I are both at risk?

“Yes,” says Karen. “Stylists who are constantly exposed to ammonia and PPD’s can develop contact dermatitis, sinus problems and breathing problems.

“The Organic Colour Systems range was actually developed by a hairdresser who developed such severe dermatitis that he had to stop working. This prompted him to investigate healthier options in professional hair care, and the brand was born.”

According to Karen, while salon clients only come into contact with ammonia in hair color about once every few weeks, hair colorists work with it on a daily basis. The Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry categorizes ammonia as a known toxin and carcinogen which can cause respiratory disorders, cardiovascular disease, and many types of cancer. Other ingredients that are used in chemical color that are potentially harmful are Resorcinol, which has been proven to interfere with our hormones, and has been linked to reproductive abnormalities and even some cancers, and Parabens.

What about ammonia-free hair colour products?

“Although some of the mass market companies have launched ammonia free permanent color ranges the problem is that they still take the pH too far away from it’s natural point, which is a pH of 5,” says Karen. “The problem with this is that you can never get the cuticle to fully closed again after it has been forced open in this way.  This means that more PPD’s have to be added to the product in order to deposit the color into your hair, as most of the color will be rinsed out of your hair at the basin and each time you wash your hair at home.  Because the cuticle stays open, you will also experience protein and moisture loss.”

So how is Organic Colour Systems different?

“OCS uses Ethanalamine in the color range and we use soya base which is naturally alkaline and helps to raise the pH of the hair, while acting as a conditioning agent,” says Karen. “Ethanolamine is an organic compound that is naturally found in coconut oil and is by far the safest alkaline agent available for hair colour today. We’ve also added Oleic Acid to the color gel which neutralizes any Ethanolamine residue after the cuticle has been opened. Because of this your exposure to unwanted chemicals is limited to the smallest amount possible, and you still get the same grey coverage that you would expect from a chemical color brand, with an even more natural looking color and shine.”

“Ethanolamine is an organic compound that is naturally found in coconut oil and is by far the safest alkaline agent available for hair colour today” – Karen Fox, Organic Colour Systems



Why can’t you cut out chemicals completely?

“Unfortunately no completely natural colour (derived only from plant materials) can give grey coverage,” explains Karen. “Even though OCS’ soya bean-derived base raises the pH of the hair, it doesn’t open the cuticle enough to allow for grey coverage and long lasting colour.

What about henna? Is that safe?

“100% pure henna is safe, but it will only turn hair either orange/red or light brown,” says Karen. “Even so people can suffer from an allergy called naphthoquinone sensitivity, which will cause itching, a tight chest, etc. Compound Henna also contains metallic salt dyes, which can build up on your hair and cause damage,” she explains. “Colored henna also contains high percentages of PPD’s which can cause allergies and should be avoided.”

Will Organic ColourSystems colour look the same as standard salon hair colour? And will it last as long?

“Yes it will, Karen ensured me. “OCS have 63 intermixable colors which allows your stylist to create a distinct color just for you, and your color will last as long as a chemical color providing you use the OCS home care products.” When I visited the salon I also spoke to one of their regular customers who frequently colours her hair using OCS, and she told me that she has always been happy with the results, and all the added health benefits.

Do I need special products to maintain natural hair colour?

Karen advises that you use The OCS homecare products to maintain your colour. “Most of the shampoos and conditioners available commercially today contains Sodium Laureth Sulfate that is used as a foaming agent, but actually strips the color from your hair due to its sodium (salt) content,” she explains. “Our homecare products don’t contain harsh ingredients and is also pH balanced to maintain the condition and nourish your hair.”

Is your homecare range completely natural?

“OCS is not a completely natural range,” says Karen. “There are a few synthetic ingredients in one or two of the care products but it contains more natural and certified organic ingredients than any professional hair care range out there. We are also constantly working on finding natural alternatives for any synthetic ingredients that will be as effective.  OCS carries the Soil Association and Ecocert

certification and none of our products are tested on animals.”

” OCS carries the Soil Association and Ecocert

certification and none of our products are tested on animals” – Karen Fox, Organic Colour Systems

How does your stretch test work?

When I went in for my OCS hair treatment, this was the first thing they did to determine the condition of my hair, which helps the stylist determine the best treatment, shampoo and conditioner to use on my hair. My stylist sat me down and took one or two hairs between her fingers, which she then stretched at the roots, mid-lenghts and ends.

My stylist explained that “healthy hair will have a good stretch and return, while hair lacking in moisture will not stretch, and hair lacking in protein will stretch but not return to it’s original length. Hair that stretches and then breaks is low in protein as well as moisture.

Organic Colour Systems have three treatments, Aqua Boost, Power Build and REVAMP, which are specifically designed to rectify each of these specific hair problems, and rectify the balance in the hair shaft, preparing hair for your color treatment.”

While my roots and mid-lengths were fine, I was informed that my ends were really dry, which is probably why it snapped off so easily. After the treatment my hair had a thicker, nourished feel and when she performed the stretch test again, my ends were actually much stronger and she could pull the hair without breakage.



Who stocks your range?

We currently have 5 salons who stock the OCS range:

GOJISPA in Willowbridge Lifestyle Centre, Cape Town – 021 914 8606
Bi’Organic, Nelspruit – 071 675 8001
The Salon, Pietermaritzburg – 033 394 6855
Eco Fusion, Boksburg – 071 437 9485
Aqua Alchemy, Brianston – 071 639 4048

I was thoroughly impressed with the results after my treatment and blow out. My hair felt stronger and I thought the shine was more brilliant than before. I also loved the space, with plenty of natural light flooding in through the windows. It’s worth popping in and trying it out.

WIN a Salon Day for you and your bestie worth R2000 including an Organic Colour Systems treatment, blowdry and a selection of home care products. To enter, share your top trick to tackle a bad hair day. Email #OrganicColourSystems and your tip to admin@9lives.co.za or post in the comments section below. Entries close 8 December

Main picture: Shutterstock; Salon pictures: Liezel Malherbe / 9Lives

The post The Benefits of Natural Hair Colour + WIN with Organic Color Systems appeared first on 9Lives.

Show more